As far as I am aware, all the strip plank Harrys are done with flat
strips. The bead and cove would add significantly to the cost. Also,
rough sawn is adequate as they have to be sanded anyway, saving
further cost. As long as there are sufficient forming frames and a
few strips of ply to pull in obstreporous strips, there doesn't seem
to be too much trouble. There is a polyurethane glue- Purbond is one
of the trade names- that expands and sets when exposed to moisture
to glue the strips together. The glue is at least as strong as the
timber. glue two cedar strips together and they will split in the
timber rather than the glue line. The planking goes on very quickly
and is a nice meditation, providing all the frames are well aligned
and firmly held in place. (I have a twisted outrigger canoe because
I didn't anchor the frames well enough) When the cutting of angles
comes it is probably worth screwing the planks on dry first, then
taking them off and then glueing them back on. (Bead and cove can
become a problem here) The dry run saves getting glue all over your
marking out and cutting equipment. Make sure you use decent gloves
as the glue penetrates the disposable lightweight ones used for
glassing, and it leaves your fingers black for a couple of days till
the outer skin peals off. The planking part is a delight but not so
the sanding.
Personally I don't have any objections to seeing the outline of the
planking, only sanding and bogging enough for good glassing- sort of
a mini carvel or you could call it a multichine. I think it gives it
a bit more character, showing it is a real boat, made of wood.
Robert
--- In harryproa@yahoogrou
>
> I was looking around the pics on the harryproa website, and in
some of the shots showing the hulls partially strip planked, it
looks like the strips aren't routed to fit together in a bead and
cove way...they almost look like they're just flat on the sides.
Are they? Or are they routed? Can you strip plank a hull with just
flat strips as long as you fiberlgass both sides? Are there any
alternatives to bead and cove joints?
> Thanks,
> Phil
>
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