Subject: RE: [harryproa] strip planking
Date: 1/25/2007, 8:55 PM

Bead and coved edges really are not necessary, they just add cost and wastage. They do help alignment between planks but that can be easily achieved  using straps of thin ply. You can either use cabosil  to glue your planks together or even better, polyurethane glue. These glues fill any voids left between planks (polyurethane glue foams). There is a lot of spiling when planking boat hulls. Spiling is cutting tapers in the planks as the surface area decreases, like near the bows. This process cuts the beads and coves off so a lot of the hull ends up with square edges anyway. The following extract is from the plans and describes the method I find the quickest:
A quick method is to use a single pot polyurethane glue, gluing each plank
as you go.  Use a cordless drill to drive 25mm drywall screws (also known as 'bugle
heads' or 'grabbers') to hold the strips to the moulds. Any misalignment between the
moulds can be pulled back into position using small strips of plywood screwed across
the join. Remember to use plastic tape on anything you don't want the planks sticking to.
 We have found the least messy and most accurate method of strip planking is to lay all
the untapered strips as described using polyurethane glue. When you come to the tapered
strips, lay them dry. When all the strips are laid and tapered, number them, remove them
and glue them back in place. When the planking is complete and the glue dry, pull out the
screws and sand the surface fair and bog the holes and any grooves.
The benefits of this method is you are cutting all your tapers dry so your hands and tools don't get glue on them and the glue doesn't get saw dust in it. I've done a lot of strip planking using a lot of different methods and this is by far the quickest.
The other time saver is to scarf the planks together as you go. Most builders glue all their scarfs the day before. This is OK but takes a lot of time and means you are handling very long planks. It also leads to a lot of wast as you never know what length planks are needed until you lay them. I scarf all my planking material both ends before I start: .  I then start screwing the plank on and hot melt glue the scarfs as I go. The glue only takes a moment to cure so I can keep screwing the rest of the strip. When the full length is screwed to the frame I run a bead of polyurethane glue along the top edge and start the next plank. I have copped a bit of flack about using hot glue on scarfs and I admit it does seem wrong but if you think about what the scarf is for and how well it is supported when finished it makes sense. A scarf is only there to hold the plank in alignment while you plank. It will be supported along both edges with adjacent planks and glassed on both faces. It is hardly going to fail. Just make sure you stagger your scarfs so no two scarfs are close together. And don't have a scarf over a mould frame or it won't lay fair.
By using these methods two people can strip plank one side of a 50' leeward hull in one day.
Mark Stephens
-----Original Message----- :: 
From: [] On Behalf Of Phil Keck
Sent: Friday, 26 January 2007 8:00 AM
Subject: [harryproa] strip planking

I was looking around the pics on the harryproa website, and in some of the shots showing the hulls partially strip planked, it looks like the strips aren't routed to fit together in a bead and cove way...they almost look like they're just flat on the sides.  Are they?  Or are they routed? Can you strip plank a hull with just flat strips as long as you fiberlgass both sides? Are there any alternatives to bead and cove joints?

Now that's room service! Choose from over 150,000 hotels
in 45,000 destinations on Yahoo! Travel
to find your fit.

Yahoo!7 360°

Start a blog

Public or private-

it's your choice.

Y!7 Toolbar

Get it Free!

easy 1-click access

to your groups.

Yahoo!7 Groups

Start a group

in 3 easy steps.

Connect with others.