Subject: RE: [harryproa] Re: harryproa ww hul infision photos
From:
Date: 9/28/2007, 7:05 PM
To:
Reply-to:
harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au

No, we just glassed strips between each frame. You could infuse the inside but it would have to be a decent size job to make it worthwhile.
 
Mark
 
 
...................................
Mark Stephens
www.harryproa.com
-----Original Message-----
From: harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au [mailto:harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au] On Behalf Of Peter Southwood
Sent: Friday, 28 September 2007 4:04 PM
To: harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au
Subject: Re: [harryproa] Re: harryproa ww hul infision photos

Hi Mark. This makes a lot of sense.
Was the exterior layup after inflation done by infusion too? If so were there any problems in the contact areas with the external framing?
Cheers,
Peter
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, September 28, 2007 12:42 AM
Subject: RE: [harryproa] Re: harryproa ww hul infision photos

The hulls are infused flat on the table both sides. The foam is glassed down to the waterline on the outside but less than this on the inside. This gives a bit of compounding to the topsides. They are then stitched together at the join in such a way that the join line can 'hinge'. A simple frame is set up and a bag inflated inside so that the unglassed foam is expanded evenly creating a compound shape hull. This of course requires the foam to be tortured which it is able to do. We used Klegecell H80 10mm thick but a more compliant foam such as Airex would work better below the waterline.
 
When the hull has been inflated the sides are pulled down into the frame to maintain the shape. Amazingly the bag can be deflated and the shape mostly held but it does lose some of it's compounding around the bows. We experimented using various objects pushed down in the bows to give different shapes but leaving the bag inflated is the best. The hull is then glassed on the outside to hold the shape, then inside.
 
We got a bit gung ho pulling the hull sides down in the frames and broke the foam. It split nearly the whole length. This was repaired by deflating, laying the panels flat on the table again and joining the split with hot glue. This worked fairly well but did give a slight 'chine" at the split which had to be sanded out. The fun of being the first to try something new. With a bit more experience and Airex below the waterline it could well be the way to go for amateur builders.
 
Mark
 
 
...................................
Mark Stephens
-----Original Message-----
From: harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au [mailto:harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au] On Behalf Of Todd
Sent: Friday, 28 September 2007 3:48 AM
To: harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au
Subject: [harryproa] Re: harryproa ww hul infision photos

Hi Rob,

I don't get it. Are you laying up the panels then basically just
bending them to the form? What maintains the shape of the hull after
bladder is deflated? Is the bottom half below water line not resin
infused and bagged or hand layed after form is achieved to maintain
shape? What thickness of foam are you using . What desnsity is it
somthing comparable to h80 h100. Could the half hull form be bent
during the infusion process instead? Or does this just complicate
the process. Whats the weight of the ww hull when finished?

Todd
&THE GUY NEXT DOOR...

--- In harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au, "Rob Denney" <harryproa@...>
wrote:
>
> G'day,
>
> Apologies for cross posting.
>
> I have added a couple more photos to the Solitarry ww hull
workshop #2
> photos page at
http://au.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/harryproa/photos/browse/598e
>
>
> They show work done after the workshop on the deck panels.
Infusing in this
> way is not recommended as the set up time is far too long. Better
to infuse
> full panels, then cut out the required pieces.
>
> Any questions, please ask.
>
> regards,
>
> rob
>


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