Subject: Re: [harryproa] Re: Resin infusion
From: "Rob Denney" <>
Date: 10/26/2007, 6:53 AM


All good advice.  A couple of points:
1) Nidaplast/Polycore does not need to be vacuumed to get a good bond to the core, unlike foam. 
2) There have been some reports of porous scrim, allowing the cells to fill up when infused.  Rolling on a layer of resin and letting it gel fixes the problem.
3) Resin infusion on a flat table (the way Derek Kelsall does it) is a lot less prone to problems than infusing in a mould, particularly with segmented cores.  Not only do the segmented cores soak up a lot of resin, they also create hard spots, interrupting the resin flow.
4) There is plenty of advice available, ranging from free (much of which is excellent) to very expensive (some of which is dubious), but by far the best way to learn is to do some samples.  Use a piece of glass as the table so you can see what is going on underneath.   Attending a KSS workshop is also an excellent idea.
5) Shade cloth works well as an infusion mediam.
6) Are you the same Rapscallion who is building a Hughes tri? 

If you have any specific questions, please ask.


On 10/26/07, Robert <> wrote:

Ther are plenty of good sites on the web and I suggest you trawl
through the KSS yahoo groups postings as a start. I was looking at
using a similar polypropylene honeycomb 'polycore'for its resilience
and the research suggested it was relatively easy to infuse from the
top side but because of the fluffy polyester scrim welded to the
surface of the polyprop, it is not easy to build in the grooves for
resin transfer on the underneath side. There is no reason not to do
one side at a time but it takes away some of the ease. It was
suggested that some people have used bird net underneath - between the
glass and the table, to allow resin transfer. I haven't tried it but
it is on my to do list if I ever get clear enough to start.Other ideas
I have considered are grooves in the table , making sure there was
peel ply over them. Both of these would probably leave surface effects
that could be a pain , depending on if you like patterned surfaces.
I have been looking at various methods for joining the pieces so as
not to ge4t excess weight from resin leaking into the joints , and the
welding of the surface film with attached scrim over the joint seems
an option, or glue it with something like purbond that can fill up the
cells, or even hot glue it. The other concern about the joints is the
possibility of having a hard line at the joint which could interfere
with a smooth bend.
If you find any info suitable please post it. THe KSS site people are
very helpful and freely exchange ideas.
I still reckon polyprop honeycomb is probably the most forgiving if
you bump anything- which I have done in every boat I have ever
skippered and most that I have crewed on- and the stuff from China is
a good price.
Robert.--- In, "captian_rapscallion"
<captian_rapscallion@...> wrote:
> I want to build a resin infusion boat. I'm also interested in
nidacore. can you tell me about
> the resin infusion process?

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