|Subject: Re: [harryproa] Re: Resin infusion|
|From: "Rob Denney" <firstname.lastname@example.org>|
|Date: 10/30/2007, 10:36 PM|
There is quite a bit more to the shaping part of KSS than meets the eye, and I doubt if you will get a decent hull shape if you do it yourself. You could ask Derek to have a look at Kurt's design, but these two have not got on with each other for years, so I doubt he will.
Another option is to infuse it over Kurt's Cylinder mould and then use his hull panel to cut it out. Check with him first, as the foam/glass may not torture enough, in which case, you could leave off the glass on one side off some of it. Unlike table infusion, this will not give you a fair, smooth exterior topsides finish, unless you build a female mould.
Bottom line is you are probably better off building as to the instructions, then fairing it by hand. A 31footer is not a huge project. I would start with the smaller items and learn on those, then the outriggers, and finally the main hull and the beams. Or, built a 1/2 or 1/3 scale model of the 31. Designing is fun, but using your first design to learn how to laminate is probably a waste of time and materials which would be better spent on the real thing.
I bought plans for a DF31 Hughes design. I want to build a smaller tri before the the 31.
I was hoping to use freeship to design a tri and use nidacore and KSS method to build it. I
just want to make the mistakes on a smaller scale i guess..
--- In harryproa@yahoogrou
ps.com.au, "Rob Denney" <harryproa@.. .> wrote:
> All good advice. A couple of points:
> 1) Nidaplast/Polycore does not need to be vacuumed to get a good bond to the
> core, unlike foam.
> 2) There have been some reports of porous scrim, allowing the cells to fill
> up when infused. Rolling on a layer of resin and letting it gel fixes the
> 3) Resin infusion on a flat table (the way Derek Kelsall does it) is a lot
> less prone to problems than infusing in a mould, particularly with segmented
> cores. Not only do the segmented cores soak up a lot of resin, they also
> create hard spots, interrupting the resin flow.
> 4) There is plenty of advice available, ranging from free (much of which is
> excellent) to very expensive (some of which is dubious), but by far the best
> way to learn is to do some samples. Use a piece of glass as the table so
> you can see what is going on underneath. Attending a KSS workshop is also
> an excellent idea.
> 5) Shade cloth works well as an infusion mediam.
> 6) Are you the same Rapscallion who is building a Hughes tri?
> If you have any specific questions, please ask.
>> On 10/26/07, Robert <cateran1949@> > Robert.--- In harryproa@yahoogrou
> > Ther are plenty of good sites on the web and I suggest you trawl
> > through the KSS yahoo groups postings as a start. I was looking at
> > using a similar polypropylene honeycomb 'polycore'for its resilience
> > and the research suggested it was relatively easy to infuse from the
> > top side but because of the fluffy polyester scrim welded to the
> > surface of the polyprop, it is not easy to build in the grooves for
> > resin transfer on the underneath side. There is no reason not to do
> > one side at a time but it takes away some of the ease. It was
> > suggested that some people have used bird net underneath - between the
> > glass and the table, to allow resin transfer. I haven't tried it but
> > it is on my to do list if I ever get clear enough to start.Other ideas
> > I have considered are grooves in the table , making sure there was
> > peel ply over them. Both of these would probably leave surface effects
> > that could be a pain , depending on if you like patterned surfaces.
> > I have been looking at various methods for joining the pieces so as
> > not to ge4t excess weight from resin leaking into the joints , and the
> > welding of the surface film with attached scrim over the joint seems
> > an option, or glue it with something like purbond that can fill up the
> > cells, or even hot glue it. The other concern about the joints is the
> > possibility of having a hard line at the joint which could interfere
> > with a smooth bend.
> > If you find any info suitable please post it. THe KSS site people are
> > very helpful and freely exchange ideas.
> > Robert
> > I still reckon polyprop honeycomb is probably the most forgiving if
> > you bump anything- which I have done in every boat I have ever
> > skippered and most that I have crewed on- and the stuff from China is
> > a good price.
ps.com.au<harryproa%40yahoogr oups.com. au>,
> > "captian_rapscallion"
> > <captian_rapscallion
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > I want to build a resin infusion boat. I'm also interested in
> > nidacore. can you tell me about
> > > the resin infusion process?
> > >