Sure anyperson can build a model. But Its the experience gained
which starts to allow you to start building your own ideas/ designs.
I have several years of tinkering designing and building all types
of models. My models are built from scratch meaning not from any
bought plans or bought material precut, just built from raw
materials with my own ideas. I do use plyboats software to get an
idea on the shape, form, length, weight etc..
The software even has a scaling calculator for printing out scale
bulk heads and cutting the skins. I can't get mine to work with the
printer I have. Its an old software program and does not support
newer printers so I just write down the offsets and draw my own bulk
heads and cutting pattern when building the model. It gets me close
enough.
My models are mostly made out of balsa, foam (for wing sail) and
some carbon rods.
Shunting the model would be pretty easy But I'm not into a full
blown r/c model. If I did a true r/c model I would build it bigger .
Having 3-4 foot hulls not 16-24 inch hulls. My small size models
just makes it easier to build at the least of expense inorder to
visualize before building full scale.
I don't have any r/c links to direct you to sorry. But getting
started buy buying a model and building it would be a great start.
Or buying plans and building a small sail boat even better.
Duckworks online magazine for backyard boat builders would be great
place to start.
Good luck
Todd
harryproa@yahoogrou
>
> Hi,
>
> The videos are fascinating. I would love to build some models like
> that just to play with. Is this somethat than can be done by a
> "regular" person, or you have to be a designer. Can you point me to
> any other messages or websites where there is more info posted on
> these models (or even other similar ones). I don't just want
something
> to look at, I would like to use them to learn more about the effect
> different factors have.
>
> Are they balsa? Hardwood? Foam and fiberglass? Any ideas on how to
> test shunting (or tacking, if I try a catamaran) short of a full
blown
> RC system.
>
> Thanks,
>
> - Gardner
>
> --- In harryproa@yahoogrou
> >
> >
> >
> > Have a look at the new scale rig 30'' mast with 195sq'' sail
area.
> > I did reattach the foresail lower on the mast. Also the new
baord
> > compared to old. Hardly a whisper of wind with just main sail
and
> > it scoots along in the pool. Hope fully get some test done this
week.
> >
> > Todd
> >
> > --- In harryproa@yahoogrou
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > THanks Todd,
> > > It is reassuring that the reality supports the theory.Wonder
how a
> > > reverse rocker V hull would go?
> > > Robert
> > > --- In harryproa@yahoogrou
wrote:
> > > >
> > > > So by seeing results from test below. You can see how I came
to
> > the
> > > > conclusion that If on the 20'' square harry with weight on
stern
> > > > that far aft to gain neutral helm. It shows the lateral area
of
> > hull
> > > > is not far enough or aft with out weight.
> > > >
> > > > Also shows the difference that hull shape makes when
balancing
> > with
> > > > different sail rigs.
> > > >
> > > > Todd
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --- In harryproa@yahoogrou
<bitme1234@>
> > > > wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > --- In harryproa@yahoogrou
<cateran1949@
> > > > > wrote:
> > > > > Part of the beauty of the Harry concept, is that as the
wind
> > > > > > increases, the relative drag from the ww hull decreases,
at
> > the
> > > > > same
> > > > > > time as the leeway resistance from the bow increases. TO
> > some
> > > > > extent,
> > > > > > these changes in forces balance. To get leeway
resistance,
> > there
> > > > > needs
> > > > > > to be some atack from the foils, or there is no lift. It
is
> > a
> > > > > balance
> > > > > > between angle of attack and size of the foil. The bows
> > > > themselves
> > > > > need
> > > > > > some angle of attack for leeway resistance, and having
the
> > > > rudders
> > > > > run
> > > > > > parallel with the bows would seem to come close to
optimal,
> > but a
> > > > > > slightly larger angle of attack with a smaller rudder
may
> > have
> > > > > > slightly less drag. It may be that a slight lift on a
> > shallow
> > > > > forward
> > > > > > rudder could reduce the overall drag as it is likely to
be
> > more
> > > > > > efficient in terms of lift to drag than a bow.
> > > > >
> > > > > Have a look at this test same day with traditional pacific
> > proa
> > > > and
> > > > > triangle sail. One run with weight on leeward hull and the
> > other
> > > > > with just board down two ways of off setting lateral hull
area.
> > > > > http://www.youtube.
> > > > >
> > > > > Todd
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
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