-You'd need them closer to the extremities to balance lee way
resistance against centre of leeway effort if they were more to wards
the ww hull.Draw a line through the drive of a sail and see how it
goes further and further aft as it goes to ww. Take into account the
resistance of the hulls and you can see that you need the centre of
leeway resistance a bit behind this line. You can get away with the
rudders on the beams if they are close to the lw hull. This is the
point of Todd's work on his A frame rig. to move hte centre of drive
forward so th ecentre of lw resistance can come forward. Have a look
at Todds video's. Fritz overcomes this with his extra sails on the ww
shroud and having minimalistic ww hull
Also it would increases the amount of reinforcing needed as the loads
are spread over a larger area
Robert
-- In harryproa@yahoogrou
>
> Hello,
> One advantage of having rudders mounted near windward hull would be
to help limit WW hull flying. As hull lifts out of water lateral
resistance would be reduced and LW hull would have more tendency to
slip, causing boat to self level or round up into wind more. This
would also put rudders closer to steering wheel and simplify linkage.
I see no negative's to having rudders neaar windward hull.
>
> Rob, is there some reason you put rudders near LW hull ?
>
> Happy sailing,
> George Kuck
> Chestertown, MD
>
>
>
> --- On Tue, 6/24/08, Gardner Pomper <gardner@...
>
> From: Gardner Pomper <gardner@...
> Subject: Re: [harryproa] First pass at 12' beam for slip and
restricted trailering
> To: harryproa@yahoogrou
> Date: Tuesday, June 24, 2008, 10:17 PM
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Hi,
>
>
> I was also wanting to ask you about the rudders. Can they be mounted
this far to windward? Basically at the centerline of the boat? It
simplifies the collapsing and lets me set up wheel steering, I assume.
>
>
> - Gardner
>
>
> On Tue, Jun 24, 2008 at 9:10 PM, Rob Denney <harryproa@gmail. com>
wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
> G'day
>
> >
> > I still have some concerns. If anyone has opinions on them, I
would love to
> > hear them.
> >
> > 1) This is a Visionarry size boat (32' ww hull, 50' lw hull) with
only a 20'
> > beam. How will
> > that effect the sailing. My primary sailing conditions are 5-10 kts. I
> > rarely sail in winds
> > above 15 and almost never above 20.
>
> 20' should not be a problem Hull flying wind should still be above
> 20 knots.
>
> >
> > 2) Where do I store the tender when the boat is collapsed in a slip?
>
> On the cabin top, on the marina, or tied up astern.
>
> >
> > 3) How do I get aboard the boat from the water?
>
> Fold down ladder, ramp or part of the tramp. Could also have steps
> recessed into the lee side of the lee hull, which helps getting on and
> off at the marina.
>
> >
> > 4) My 2nd double is difficult to access. I have planned an opening
hatch in
> > the cabin roof,
> > but that is awkward and potentially a source of leaks.
>
> Decent hatches don't leak, and there should not be solid water hitting
> it so you will get away with less than an expensive one. The
> awkwardness is a function of jamming a lot into a small space. Unless
> you regularly plan to have plenty of visitors, I would use a deck tent
> or a motel for the extras. 6 people sleeping on a boat is easy. 6
> people living on a boat for any length of time is not.
>
> Schooner rigs are great, but almost twice the cost and work of a
> single rig. Ballestron fits in the middle somewhere. Schooners are
> great on reaches, which is where you will most often be sailing, less
> good upwind, except in decent breeze. They also make shunting easier
> the first few times, after which it is simple no matter what rig you
> have. Whether you can get enough sail area with a sub 65' mast will
> depend on the weight of the boat. Trailing a 65' mast is a lot more
> drama than trailling two x 50' masts. 2 x 40' masts will fit in a
> container. Telescoping or two piece masts will solve both of these
> problems. Decisions, decisions!
>
> regards,
>
> Rob
> >
>
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