You can do a radius join as Derek uses on his KSS syastem. Make a
mould using a bit of PVC drainage pipe and a right angle support, and
bring the mould to the edge of any sheet you are joining. You then
glue the overlapping edges together. This is supposed to make it dead
easy to assemble. Another way is to bend the edges of the sheet with a
bit of help by cutting slits on one side, butting the sheets together
then glassing them. a 2" radius allows smoother glassing than a hard
chine. Your foam addition with trimming after may be the easiest way
with your design.
About boxing the edges. Check out http://www.pdracer.
design section where they talk about increasing resistance to torque
in terms of a floppy open cardboard box compared with a closed and
taped one. Some of your hatchways could be stiffened in this manner.
Rob reckons an extra layer of double diagonal glass stiffens things
up well enough as long as the holes aren't too big or too close and
the hull is wide enough
I think I would prefer to put in bouyancy tanks highe enough
somewhere to float a bit higher. Remember to put in your escape hatch
and go fishing from the galley.
--- In harryproa@yahoogrou
>
> Hi,
> Sketchup is surprisingly easy. And the more components you make, the
easier
> it gets. My ww hull is getting fragmented from all the changes I
have been
> making, so I will probably just redraw it, but since the cockpit,
galley and
> hardtop are all seperate components, it will be easy. Next time I
will make
> the raised sole a seperate component also.
>
> Thanks for spotting the beam clearance. I had meant to measure up 3'
from
> the waterline, but apparently I measured 3' from the keel. That was
easy to
> fix; I just slid them vertically up 1', so there is 3' (900 mm)
clearance
> at the lw hull. That also let me raise the cabins a bit, so I have 2.5'
> clearance even on the ww hull (important because I don't think this hull
> will lift much in "ordinary" weather)
>
> Yes, the sharp edges are just how I know to use sketchup. Maybe
there is a
> way to round them; I am not sure. In actual construction, how do you
make a
> 50mm radius? I was hoping to just tape the flat sheets together? Can
I just
> cut a triangular strip of foam on the inside edge, laminate that and
then
> plane down the outside sharp edge?
>
> I agree about the water. I will just put it under the cockpit sole.
I could
> fit 2.5 tonnes of water there (I did a quick calc) if I wanted to
sink the
> boat <grin>. Actually, if I leave a 7' section open, that might make a
> decent survival chamber if the boat capsizes. It should be well
above the
> waterline.
>
> I would love to have a watermaker, but the good ones seem to run
$5K-$10K,
> and I don't think I will be able to justify that. I do intend to
have enough
> solar panels to run all my equipment and fridge/freezer, and enough
battery
> storage to go 2-3 days of rain before having to break out the little
Honda
> gas generator.
>
> I am going to revisit the lw hull. I think I can give it a little
more flare
> and lower the bunks up to a foot, which would lower the cabin tops a
foot.
> That would reduce windage and give better visibility from the
cockpit when
> seated. I can probably also raise the cutout a foot, which will
minimize the
> cutout portion.
>
> I looked up the Puddleduck racer, read the wikipedia entry and the
> pdracer.com web site, but I don't see any particular mention of box
> sections, so I am not clear about the reference. The cabins are already
> boxed in, so I am not sure where you are going with that.
>
> There will be drop down clears and netting around the whole cockpit.
I think
> I will just put lexan in the hardtop sections over the ww hull, but
the res
> will be rolldowns on all sides, so it can be completely closed. I
left the
> ww hull roof open on the drawing, but I think I will actually close
it, so
> that you can seal the ww hull shut in really bad weather.
>
> I also have a 3D model of a modified version of Doug's sidecar, that
I need
> to get posted up here. That would also be a good project for me to
try to
> build. All I need is time and money <grin> !
>
> Thanks again for reviewing my uploads. I am really starting to like this
> layout. I wish I could be more confident about the rudders. I have been
> following the Kelsall forums, and Derek just announced a 42' cat with a
> shell weight pretty similar to Visionarry, and set up for modular
> construction so Rob is going to have some competition for price and
speed, I
> think. I think I prefer the proas, but I am really concerned about the
> rudders, and not crazy about outboards, so there is a lot to
consider still.
>
> - Gardner
>
>
> On Thu, Feb 19, 2009 at 2:13 AM, Robert <cateran1949@
>
> > You are certainly getting proficient at sketch up. The overall boat
> > looks quite well proportioned
> >
> > Comments
> > The crossbeams seem much too low. They will be plowing into waves
> > down there. I know it means further for the rudders to go to reach the
> > water, but the extra leverage is a price we have to pay to have the
> > rudders on the crossbeams. I'd put the crossbeams at least with their
> > bottoms level with the bottom of the lw lockers, then bring the
> > lockers even further forward and attach the rudders there. I would
> > like a minimum of 750mm clearance at the lw hull end. The bridge deck
> > can be lower as it is in the sheltered area. I like your galley
> > layout. I am assuming you will be able to weather proof with clears
> > and mosquito proof.
> > I am also assuming that the hard edges are part of the limitation of
> > easy sketch up and the edges would be radiused at least 50mm to reduce
> > drag and damage to people.
> >
> > The lw hull could be made to work if the edges around the centre area
> > were boxed in to make a nice stiff structure, but there are a lot of
> > holes. Does the centre deck really have to be that low. Check out
> > the Australian Puddle duck racer for quite a nice explanation of the
> > effect of boxing in.
> >
> > I would much rather have water leak into the ww hull than a battery.
> > I'd store water down low in the ww hull and batteries in a separate
> > compartment of their own. You'd also get a greater density using water
> > as there isn't so much air between things. You can easily go through
> > half a ton of water on a trip. You don't really want that much weight
> > slopping around unsupported. In the hulls, much of the weight is
> > supported by the water pressure outside the boat. You could easily get
> > that much volume under the sole , but make sure you have separate
> > compartments and baffles in the compartments. Pantry stuff can go into
> > some of those cupboards, though if you are going offshore in anything
> > at all nasty, strap them in.
> > I am thinking of having the potential of some extra storage of water
> > in the lw hull if I think I may be going on a bit of a dry trip.
> >
> > Solar panels on the roof with a watermaker would reduce the need to
> > carry as much water, and you could do some extra charging under kite
> > when trying to slow down the boat sufficiently to fly the kite.
> >
> > --- In harryproa@yahoogrou
> > Gardner Pomper <gardner@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Ok, I added a cutaway of the WW hull. I couldn't resist. Google
> > sketchup is
> > > cool.
> > > Anyway, in the cutaway, you can see that the galley has 12 linear
> > feet of
> > > standard size 2x2x2 kitchen cabinets, with 1x2x2 upper cabinets
as well.
> > > There will also be smaller 1x2 cabinets on the opposite wall.
> > >
> > > There is a 2' step up from the hull bottom, which is the sole in the
> > heads
> > > and cabins, to the galley area. Under that is where I plan on
> > storing the
> > > heaviest items, like ship batteries, toolboxes and canned goods. I
> > am trying
> > > to put the water tanks under the bridgedeck, so there is no
> > possibility of
> > > leaking into the ww hull.
> > >
> > > If I can find depth and knotmeters that will work through a
> > composite hull,
> > > there will be no reason to cut any holes below the waterline in the
> > hull.
> > > The toilets will be composting, I can have the sinks drain under the
> > > bridgedeck, and outboards don't take any seawater input and the
> > rudders are
> > > beam mounted. Cool!
> > >
> > > Comments please!
> > >
> > > - Gardner
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>
Change settings via the Web (Yahoo! ID required)
Change settings via email: Switch delivery to Daily Digest | Switch format to Traditional
Visit Your Group | Yahoo! Groups Terms of Use | Unsubscribe