Have you looked at this - http://www.watermak
%20ffp.htm
--- In harryproa@yahoogrou
wrote:
>
> Hi,
> Have you done this? I am leery of buying plans for watermakers,
especially
> since I really want it to be reliable.
>
> - Gardner
>
> On Thu, Feb 19, 2009 at 11:31 AM, Peter MacLean <maccarr06@.
wrote:
>
> > Hi check out ebay,you can build your own watermaker at a
resonable
> > price. Peter
> >
> > --- On *Thu, 2/19/09, Gardner Pomper <gardner@...
> >
> > From: Gardner Pomper <gardner@...
> > Subject: Re: [harryproa] Re: New liveaboard design in 3D
> > To: harryproa@yahoogrou
> > Date: Thursday, February 19, 2009, 8:24 AM
> >
> >
> > Hi,
> > Sketchup is surprisingly easy. And the more components you make,
the easier
> > it gets. My ww hull is getting fragmented from all the changes I
have been
> > making, so I will probably just redraw it, but since the cockpit,
galley and
> > hardtop are all seperate components, it will be easy. Next time I
will make
> > the raised sole a seperate component also.
> >
> > Thanks for spotting the beam clearance. I had meant to measure up
3' from
> > the waterline, but apparently I measured 3' from the keel. That
was easy to
> > fix; I just slid them vertically up 1', so there is 3' (900 mm)
clearance
> > at the lw hull. That also let me raise the cabins a bit, so I
have 2.5'
> > clearance even on the ww hull (important because I don't think
this hull
> > will lift much in "ordinary" weather)
> >
> > Yes, the sharp edges are just how I know to use sketchup. Maybe
there is a
> > way to round them; I am not sure. In actual construction, how do
you make a
> > 50mm radius? I was hoping to just tape the flat sheets together?
Can I just
> > cut a triangular strip of foam on the inside edge, laminate that
and then
> > plane down the outside sharp edge?
> >
> > I agree about the water. I will just put it under the cockpit
sole. I could
> > fit 2.5 tonnes of water there (I did a quick calc) if I wanted to
sink the
> > boat <grin>. Actually, if I leave a 7' section open, that might
make a
> > decent survival chamber if the boat capsizes. It should be well
above the
> > waterline.
> >
> > I would love to have a watermaker, but the good ones seem to run
$5K-$10K,
> > and I don't think I will be able to justify that. I do intend to
have enough
> > solar panels to run all my equipment and fridge/freezer, and
enough battery
> > storage to go 2-3 days of rain before having to break out the
little Honda
> > gas generator.
> >
> > I am going to revisit the lw hull. I think I can give it a little
more
> > flare and lower the bunks up to a foot, which would lower the
cabin tops a
> > foot. That would reduce windage and give better visibility from
the cockpit
> > when seated. I can probably also raise the cutout a foot, which
will
> > minimize the cutout portion.
> >
> > I looked up the Puddleduck racer, read the wikipedia entry and the
> > pdracer.com web site, but I don't see any particular mention of
box
> > sections, so I am not clear about the reference. The cabins are
already
> > boxed in, so I am not sure where you are going with that.
> >
> > There will be drop down clears and netting around the whole
cockpit. I
> > think I will just put lexan in the hardtop sections over the ww
hull, but
> > the res will be rolldowns on all sides, so it can be completely
closed. I
> > left the ww hull roof open on the drawing, but I think I will
actually close
> > it, so that you can seal the ww hull shut in really bad weather.
> >
> > I also have a 3D model of a modified version of Doug's sidecar,
that I need
> > to get posted up here. That would also be a good project for me
to try to
> > build. All I need is time and money <grin> !
> >
> > Thanks again for reviewing my uploads. I am really starting to
like this
> > layout. I wish I could be more confident about the rudders. I
have been
> > following the Kelsall forums, and Derek just announced a 42' cat
with a
> > shell weight pretty similar to Visionarry, and set up for modular
> > construction so Rob is going to have some competition for price
and speed, I
> > think. I think I prefer the proas, but I am really concerned
about the
> > rudders, and not crazy about outboards, so there is a lot to
consider still.
> >
> > - Gardner
> >
> >
> > On Thu, Feb 19, 2009 at 2:13 AM, Robert <cateran1949@
> >
> >> You are certainly getting proficient at sketch up. The overall
boat
> >> looks quite well proportioned
> >>
> >> Comments
> >> The crossbeams seem much too low. They will be plowing into waves
> >> down there. I know it means further for the rudders to go to
reach the
> >> water, but the extra leverage is a price we have to pay to have
the
> >> rudders on the crossbeams. I'd put the crossbeams at least with
their
> >> bottoms level with the bottom of the lw lockers, then bring the
> >> lockers even further forward and attach the rudders there. I
would
> >> like a minimum of 750mm clearance at the lw hull end. The bridge
deck
> >> can be lower as it is in the sheltered area. I like your galley
> >> layout. I am assuming you will be able to weather proof with
clears
> >> and mosquito proof.
> >> I am also assuming that the hard edges are part of the
limitation of
> >> easy sketch up and the edges would be radiused at least 50mm to
reduce
> >> drag and damage to people.
> >>
> >> The lw hull could be made to work if the edges around the centre
area
> >> were boxed in to make a nice stiff structure, but there are a
lot of
> >> holes. Does the centre deck really have to be that low. Check out
> >> the Australian Puddle duck racer for quite a nice explanation of
the
> >> effect of boxing in.
> >>
> >> I would much rather have water leak into the ww hull than a
battery.
> >> I'd store water down low in the ww hull and batteries in a
separate
> >> compartment of their own. You'd also get a greater density using
water
> >> as there isn't so much air between things. You can easily go
through
> >> half a ton of water on a trip. You don't really want that much
weight
> >> slopping around unsupported. In the hulls, much of the weight is
> >> supported by the water pressure outside the boat. You could
easily get
> >> that much volume under the sole , but make sure you have separate
> >> compartments and baffles in the compartments. Pantry stuff can
go into
> >> some of those cupboards, though if you are going offshore in
anything
> >> at all nasty, strap them in.
> >> I am thinking of having the potential of some extra storage of
water
> >> in the lw hull if I think I may be going on a bit of a dry trip.
> >>
> >> Solar panels on the roof with a watermaker would reduce the need
to
> >> carry as much water, and you could do some extra charging under
kite
> >> when trying to slow down the boat sufficiently to fly the kite.
> >>
> >> --- In harryproa@yahoogrou
%40yahoogroups.
> >> Gardner Pomper <gardner@> wrote:
> >> >
> >> > Ok, I added a cutaway of the WW hull. I couldn't resist. Google
> >> sketchup is
> >> > cool.
> >> > Anyway, in the cutaway, you can see that the galley has 12
linear
> >> feet of
> >> > standard size 2x2x2 kitchen cabinets, with 1x2x2 upper
cabinets as well.
> >> > There will also be smaller 1x2 cabinets on the opposite wall.
> >> >
> >> > There is a 2' step up from the hull bottom, which is the sole
in the
> >> heads
> >> > and cabins, to the galley area. Under that is where I plan on
> >> storing the
> >> > heaviest items, like ship batteries, toolboxes and canned
goods. I
> >> am trying
> >> > to put the water tanks under the bridgedeck, so there is no
> >> possibility of
> >> > leaking into the ww hull.
> >> >
> >> > If I can find depth and knotmeters that will work through a
> >> composite hull,
> >> > there will be no reason to cut any holes below the waterline
in the
> >> hull.
> >> > The toilets will be composting, I can have the sinks drain
under the
> >> > bridgedeck, and outboards don't take any seawater input and the
> >> rudders are
> >> > beam mounted. Cool!
> >> >
> >> > Comments please!
> >> >
> >> > - Gardner
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
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