Hi,
Sketchup is surprisingly easy. And the more components you make, the easier it gets. My ww hull is getting fragmented from all the changes I have been making, so I will probably just redraw it, but since the cockpit, galley and hardtop are all seperate components, it will be easy. Next time I will make the raised sole a seperate component also.
Thanks for spotting the beam clearance. I had meant to measure up 3' from the waterline, but apparently I measured 3' from the keel. That was easy to fix; I just slid them vertically up 1', so there is 3' (900 mm) clearance at the lw hull. That also let me raise the cabins a bit, so I have 2.5' clearance even on the ww hull (important because I don't think this hull will lift much in "ordinary" weather)
Yes, the sharp edges are just how I know to use sketchup. Maybe there is a way to round them; I am not sure. In actual construction, how do you make a 50mm radius? I was hoping to just tape the flat sheets together? Can I just cut a triangular strip of foam on the inside edge, laminate that and then plane down the outside sharp edge?
I agree about the water. I will just put it under the cockpit sole. I could fit 2.5 tonnes of water there (I did a quick calc) if I wanted to sink the boat <grin>. Actually, if I leave a 7' section open, that might make a decent survival chamber if the boat capsizes. It should be well above the waterline.
I would love to have a watermaker, but the good ones seem to run $5K-$10K, and I don't think I will be able to justify that. I do intend to have enough solar panels to run all my equipment and fridge/freezer, and enough battery storage to go 2-3 days of rain before having to break out the little Honda gas generator.
I am going to revisit the lw hull. I think I can give it a little more flare and lower the bunks up to a foot, which would lower the cabin tops a foot. That would reduce windage and give better visibility from the cockpit when seated. I can probably also raise the cutout a foot, which will minimize the cutout portion.
I looked up the Puddleduck racer, read the wikipedia entry and the
pdracer.com web site, but I don't see any particular mention of box sections, so I am not clear about the reference. The cabins are already boxed in, so I am not sure where you are going with that.
There will be drop down clears and netting around the whole cockpit. I think I will just put lexan in the hardtop sections over the ww hull, but the res will be rolldowns on all sides, so it can be completely closed. I left the ww hull roof open on the drawing, but I think I will actually close it, so that you can seal the ww hull shut in really bad weather.
I also have a 3D model of a modified version of Doug's sidecar, that I need to get posted up here. That would also be a good project for me to try to build. All I need is time and money <grin> !
Thanks again for reviewing my uploads. I am really starting to like this layout. I wish I could be more confident about the rudders. I have been following the Kelsall forums, and Derek just announced a 42' cat with a shell weight pretty similar to Visionarry, and set up for modular construction so Rob is going to have some competition for price and speed, I think. I think I prefer the proas, but I am really concerned about the rudders, and not crazy about outboards, so there is a lot to consider still.
- Gardner
On Thu, Feb 19, 2009 at 2:13 AM, Robert
<cateran1949@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
You are certainly getting proficient at sketch up. The overall boat
looks quite well proportioned
Comments
The crossbeams seem much too low. They will be plowing into waves
down there. I know it means further for the rudders to go to reach the
water, but the extra leverage is a price we have to pay to have the
rudders on the crossbeams. I'd put the crossbeams at least with their
bottoms level with the bottom of the lw lockers, then bring the
lockers even further forward and attach the rudders there. I would
like a minimum of 750mm clearance at the lw hull end. The bridge deck
can be lower as it is in the sheltered area. I like your galley
layout. I am assuming you will be able to weather proof with clears
and mosquito proof.
I am also assuming that the hard edges are part of the limitation of
easy sketch up and the edges would be radiused at least 50mm to reduce
drag and damage to people.
The
lw hull could be made to work if the edges around the centre area
were boxed in to make a nice stiff structure, but there are a lot of
holes. Does the centre deck really have to be that low. Check out
the Australian Puddle duck racer for quite a nice explanation of the
effect of boxing in.
I would much rather have water leak into the ww hull than a battery.
I'd store water down low in the ww hull and batteries in a separate
compartment of their own. You'd also get a greater density using water
as there isn't so much air between things. You can easily go through
half a ton of water on a trip. You don't really want that much weight
slopping around unsupported. In the hulls, much of the weight is
supported by the water pressure outside the boat. You could easily get
that much volume under the sole , but make sure you have separate
compartments and baffles in the compartments. Pantry stuff can go into
some of
those cupboards, though if you are going offshore in anything
at all nasty, strap them in.
I am thinking of having the potential of some extra storage of water
in the lw hull if I think I may be going on a bit of a dry trip.
Solar panels on the roof with a watermaker would reduce the need to
carry as much water, and you could do some extra charging under kite
when trying to slow down the boat sufficiently to fly the kite.
--- In
harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au, Gardner Pomper <gardner@...> wrote:
>
> Ok, I added a cutaway of the WW hull. I couldn't resist. Google
sketchup is
> cool.
> Anyway, in the cutaway, you can see that the galley has 12 linear
feet of
> standard size 2x2x2 kitchen cabinets, with 1x2x2 upper cabinets as well.
> There will also be smaller 1x2 cabinets on the opposite wall.
>
> There is a 2' step up from the hull bottom, which is the sole in the
heads
> and cabins, to the galley area. Under that is where I plan on
storing the
> heaviest items, like ship batteries, toolboxes and canned goods. I
am trying
> to put the water tanks under the bridgedeck, so there is no
possibility of
> leaking into the ww hull.
>
> If I can find depth and knotmeters that will work
through a
composite hull,
> there will be no reason to cut any holes below the waterline in the
hull.
> The toilets will be composting, I can have the sinks drain under the
> bridgedeck, and outboards don't take any seawater input and the
rudders are
> beam mounted. Cool!
>
> Comments please!
>
> - Gardner
>
