I ran across that earlier today and searched around for comments from anyone how owned one. Not much to be found, except for one person whose unit did not work at all and the company would not respond or fix it over teh period of a year or so. One other comment that it skips up out of the water above 6 knots. No positive commnts from owners. One good review in a french mag.

It sounds intriguing, but so far the feedback has not been encouraging.

- Gardner

On Thu, Feb 19, 2009 at 8:53 PM, fitzgeraldskhayyam <omarkhayyam@operamail.com> wrote:

Have you looked at this - http://www.watermakers.ws/watermakers
%20ffp.htm

--- In harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au, Gardner Pomper <gardner@...>
wrote:
>

> Hi,
> Have you done this? I am leery of buying plans for watermakers,
especially
> since I really want it to be reliable.
>
> - Gardner
>

> On Thu, Feb 19, 2009 at 11:31 AM, Peter MacLean <maccarr06@...>

wrote:
>
> > Hi check out ebay,you can build your own watermaker at a
resonable
> > price. Peter
> >

> > --- On *Thu, 2/19/09, Gardner Pomper <gardner@...>* wrote:
> >
> > From: Gardner Pomper <gardner@...>

> > Subject: Re: [harryproa] Re: New liveaboard design in 3D
> > To: harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au
> > Date: Thursday, February 19, 2009, 8:24 AM
> >
> >
> > Hi,
> > Sketchup is surprisingly easy. And the more components you make,
the easier
> > it gets. My ww hull is getting fragmented from all the changes I
have been
> > making, so I will probably just redraw it, but since the cockpit,
galley and
> > hardtop are all seperate components, it will be easy. Next time I
will make
> > the raised sole a seperate component also.
> >
> > Thanks for spotting the beam clearance. I had meant to measure up
3' from
> > the waterline, but apparently I measured 3' from the keel. That
was easy to
> > fix; I just slid them vertically up 1', so there is 3' (900 mm)
clearance
> > at the lw hull. That also let me raise the cabins a bit, so I
have 2.5'
> > clearance even on the ww hull (important because I don't think
this hull
> > will lift much in "ordinary" weather)
> >
> > Yes, the sharp edges are just how I know to use sketchup. Maybe
there is a
> > way to round them; I am not sure. In actual construction, how do
you make a
> > 50mm radius? I was hoping to just tape the flat sheets together?
Can I just
> > cut a triangular strip of foam on the inside edge, laminate that
and then
> > plane down the outside sharp edge?
> >
> > I agree about the water. I will just put it under the cockpit
sole. I could
> > fit 2.5 tonnes of water there (I did a quick calc) if I wanted to
sink the
> > boat <grin>. Actually, if I leave a 7' section open, that might
make a
> > decent survival chamber if the boat capsizes. It should be well
above the
> > waterline.
> >
> > I would love to have a watermaker, but the good ones seem to run
$5K-$10K,
> > and I don't think I will be able to justify that. I do intend to
have enough
> > solar panels to run all my equipment and fridge/freezer, and
enough battery
> > storage to go 2-3 days of rain before having to break out the
little Honda
> > gas generator.
> >
> > I am going to revisit the lw hull. I think I can give it a little
more
> > flare and lower the bunks up to a foot, which would lower the
cabin tops a
> > foot. That would reduce windage and give better visibility from
the cockpit
> > when seated. I can probably also raise the cutout a foot, which
will
> > minimize the cutout portion.
> >
> > I looked up the Puddleduck racer, read the wikipedia entry and the
> > pdracer.com web site, but I don't see any particular mention of
box
> > sections, so I am not clear about the reference. The cabins are
already
> > boxed in, so I am not sure where you are going with that.
> >
> > There will be drop down clears and netting around the whole
cockpit. I
> > think I will just put lexan in the hardtop sections over the ww
hull, but
> > the res will be rolldowns on all sides, so it can be completely
closed. I
> > left the ww hull roof open on the drawing, but I think I will
actually close
> > it, so that you can seal the ww hull shut in really bad weather.
> >
> > I also have a 3D model of a modified version of Doug's sidecar,
that I need
> > to get posted up here. That would also be a good project for me
to try to
> > build. All I need is time and money <grin> !
> >
> > Thanks again for reviewing my uploads. I am really starting to
like this
> > layout. I wish I could be more confident about the rudders. I
have been
> > following the Kelsall forums, and Derek just announced a 42' cat
with a
> > shell weight pretty similar to Visionarry, and set up for modular
> > construction so Rob is going to have some competition for price
and speed, I
> > think. I think I prefer the proas, but I am really concerned
about the
> > rudders, and not crazy about outboards, so there is a lot to
consider still.
> >
> > - Gardner
> >
> >

> > On Thu, Feb 19, 2009 at 2:13 AM, Robert <cateran1949@...> wrote:
> >
> >> You are certainly getting proficient at sketch up. The overall
boat
> >> looks quite well proportioned
> >>
> >> Comments
> >> The crossbeams seem much too low. They will be plowing into waves
> >> down there. I know it means further for the rudders to go to
reach the
> >> water, but the extra leverage is a price we have to pay to have
the
> >> rudders on the crossbeams. I'd put the crossbeams at least with
their
> >> bottoms level with the bottom of the lw lockers, then bring the
> >> lockers even further forward and attach the rudders there. I
would
> >> like a minimum of 750mm clearance at the lw hull end. The bridge
deck
> >> can be lower as it is in the sheltered area. I like your galley
> >> layout. I am assuming you will be able to weather proof with
clears
> >> and mosquito proof.
> >> I am also assuming that the hard edges are part of the
limitation of
> >> easy sketch up and the edges would be radiused at least 50mm to
reduce
> >> drag and damage to people.
> >>
> >> The lw hull could be made to work if the edges around the centre
area
> >> were boxed in to make a nice stiff structure, but there are a
lot of
> >> holes. Does the centre deck really have to be that low. Check out
> >> the Australian Puddle duck racer for quite a nice explanation of
the
> >> effect of boxing in.
> >>
> >> I would much rather have water leak into the ww hull than a
battery.
> >> I'd store water down low in the ww hull and batteries in a
separate
> >> compartment of their own. You'd also get a greater density using
water
> >> as there isn't so much air between things. You can easily go
through
> >> half a ton of water on a trip. You don't really want that much
weight
> >> slopping around unsupported. In the hulls, much of the weight is
> >> supported by the water pressure outside the boat. You could
easily get
> >> that much volume under the sole , but make sure you have separate
> >> compartments and baffles in the compartments. Pantry stuff can
go into
> >> some of those cupboards, though if you are going offshore in
anything
> >> at all nasty, strap them in.
> >> I am thinking of having the potential of some extra storage of
water
> >> in the lw hull if I think I may be going on a bit of a dry trip.
> >>
> >> Solar panels on the roof with a watermaker would reduce the need
to
> >> carry as much water, and you could do some extra charging under
kite
> >> when trying to slow down the boat sufficiently to fly the kite.
> >>

> >> --- In harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au <harryproa
%40yahoogroups.com.au>,

> >> Gardner Pomper <gardner@> wrote:
> >> >
> >> > Ok, I added a cutaway of the WW hull. I couldn't resist. Google
> >> sketchup is
> >> > cool.
> >> > Anyway, in the cutaway, you can see that the galley has 12
linear
> >> feet of
> >> > standard size 2x2x2 kitchen cabinets, with 1x2x2 upper
cabinets as well.
> >> > There will also be smaller 1x2 cabinets on the opposite wall.
> >> >
> >> > There is a 2' step up from the hull bottom, which is the sole
in the
> >> heads
> >> > and cabins, to the galley area. Under that is where I plan on
> >> storing the
> >> > heaviest items, like ship batteries, toolboxes and canned
goods. I
> >> am trying
> >> > to put the water tanks under the bridgedeck, so there is no
> >> possibility of
> >> > leaking into the ww hull.
> >> >
> >> > If I can find depth and knotmeters that will work through a
> >> composite hull,
> >> > there will be no reason to cut any holes below the waterline
in the
> >> hull.
> >> > The toilets will be composting, I can have the sinks drain
under the
> >> > bridgedeck, and outboards don't take any seawater input and the
> >> rudders are
> >> > beam mounted. Cool!
> >> >
> >> > Comments please!
> >> >
> >> > - Gardner
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>