I was supposing that a ww mast would be smaller than the
lw one, you could lower the height of the lw mast then and take
everything off of the ww mast when it is fresh.
point the ww mast into the wind.
its really a light wind help I guess.If you get too
worried about capsizing you might not get the most out of your boat.
what happens to your flying/trying not to capsize when
there is another mast in the ww hull?
it will catch some more wind as it gets lifted upbut will
still be heeling over with the rest of the boat.
I can't see why it wouldn't be more efficient drive for
less heeling, if the controls make it smiple enough to use.
I was imaging two easy rigs.
Lw hull one bigger, but not as big as the sandard
harryproa mast.
Doug
Doing some editing now, showng the better parts, might be
several minutes long, is this too much for you tube pieces?
--- On Thu, 19/3/09, Mike Crawford <jmichael@gwi.net>
wrote:
From: Mike Crawford <jmichael@gwi.net>
Subject: Re: [harryproa] Re: cantarry - racing -
To: harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au
Date: Thursday, 19 March, 2009, 11:33 PM
I can see the advantage of the rig in the ww hull in that there won't
be any interference or turbulence from the ww hull on the sail.
However, the boat will likely be simpler and lighter if the primary
sailing stresses are all in the lw hull. This way the fore/aft forces
are all in a line in the same hull, and don't have to be translated
through the beams. That's a lot of torsion that won't have to be
designed for.
I'd rather keep the rig, or rigs, in the lw hull, even if I have to
add another meter in mast height. That will likely be a stronger and
lighter boat, with fewer opportunities for structural failure.
Also, for racing, one advantage of rigs in the lw hull is that you
can conceivably pop back up after a capsize. Perhaps you'll need to
use a sea anchor to do it, or have a small boat pull you back upright,
but it shouldn't be hard either way.
Righting an atlantic proa would be a major undertaking, and could not
be done alone or with a small boat assisting.
This would matter to me if I'm racing and pushing the boat to its
limits..
It's rather disturbing to fly a hull on a boat when you know that a
capsize will result in the boat going turtle, which will inevitably
cause thousands of dollars of damage (mast, rigging, masthead
insruments) if the water depth is less than the mast height.
- Mike
Arto Hakkarainen wrote:
The most efficient racing rig would probably be high
aspect ratio upwind rig on ww hull with possibility to add extras on lw
hull (as light spars and rig as possible). Since there is plenty of
righting moment rig could be very high aspect and therefore efficient
upwind if designed and made correctly. Low aspect reaching sail on lw
hull for speed when not hard on the wind. Crab claw theoretically would
be great reaching sail but could be too far out in reality...
--- On Thu, 3/19/09, Robert <cateran1949@ yahoo.co. uk> wrote:
From: Robert <cateran1949@ yahoo.co. uk>
Subject: [harryproa] Re: cantarry - racing -
To: harryproa@yahoogrou ps.com.au
Date: Thursday, March 19, 2009, 12:18 PM
But weight in the right place.
--- In harryproa@yahoogrou ps.com.au, Arto
Hakkarainen <ahakkara@..
.> wrote:
>
> If we are talking about very fast boat the apparent wind should be
forward of beam all the time. If you use spinnaker/screacher /any other
downwind sail in windward rig it blankets the leeward hull rig. Any
downwind sail used should be in the rig on lw hull. But the idea of rig
on each hull is appealing but adds complexity and weight of course.
>
> Arto
>
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