just had a look at the 3d too. the closing in on deck doesn't go with the beach style cruising , gettig on and off and seeing the water, plus it is real comfortable lying in a loungey chair over long distrances, otherwise i would've gotten much more sore. my high cabin kept water off on most every day except real blowey choppy days when i wish i had rob's nice sailing jacket   thinking onwhat sizing up from sidecar you could go, but the change comes once you decide it has to be standing head room, and then the bunks go out onto the bridge deck too.   rapscallion seems close enough, something it would be ideal to circle australia. --- On Sat, 25/4/09, George Kuck <chesapeake410@yahoo.com> wrote: From: George Kuck <chesapeake410@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [harryproa] Bottom construction for beaching? To: harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au Date: Saturday, 25 April, 2009, 12:07 AM Hello Gargner, Just feather the edge of taped joint.  When I built the Float hulls for my TT 720 I just used 6" strips of 1208 DB (12oz DB with CSM).  Sand edge of tape strip to get a smooth for trawl and then feather edge 2 or 3" with whatever filler you are using.  The trick is to use just enough filler to feather the edge without using too much and then having to spend a lot of time sanding it off,  much like doing dry wall work.   George Kuck Chestertown, MD --- On Fri, 4/24/09, Gardner Pomper <gardner@networknow. org> wrote: From: Gardner Pomper <gardner@networknow. org> Subject: Re: [harryproa] Bottom construction for beaching? To: harryproa@yahoogrou ps.com.au Date: Friday, April 24, 2009, 9:39 AM Ok. I was going to build fender boards and use them as walkways next to the cockpit when not tied up at a dock. I guess I could put them under the hulls when beaching. I am not planning on bringing tires with me to the bahamas <grin> Yes, I was planning on splitting the hulls into 3 parts. I just need to figure out these rebate things for joining the keel side to the upper hull side. The rebate should be about as thick as 1 layer of fiberglass, on each side, correct? So I just sand the foam down about 1 mm near the edge of each piece to be joined? - Gardner On Fri, Apr 24, 2009 at 9:31 AM, Rob Denney <harryproa@gmail. com> wrote: G'day, If you split the hulls, split them in three, not two. Splitting the bent area makes it a V rather than a round. A rock will damage 2 layers of glass almost as easily as one. If you dry it out, do so on planks, fenders or old tyres. Makes it easier to work on the bottom as well. regards, Rob On Fri, Apr 24, 2009 at 9:16 PM, Gardner Pomper <gardner@networknow. org> wrote: > > > Hi Doug, > > So how much of the bows? Just the keel section, or all the way up? Is carbon > appropriate, or should I use kevlar? From what I have heard, you can't sand > kevlar, so maybe kevlar covered by a layer of fiberglass? > I like sidecar, but it just kept growing on me and I couldn't stop until I > ran up against the limits of fitting it into a container, so it ended up as > a flat panel harry. For some reason, I keep thinking that I am going to be > able to build it, all evidence to the contrarry. I have not ordered the > materials yet, so this is the time for last minute pleas to my sanity > <grin>. > I have pretty much up to date diagrams in the Files section under "Gardners > Layouts/Contrarry" . > The only thing I have changed since posting them is the panel layouts. I > split the hulls so that I only need an 8' wide table. > > > On Fri, Apr 24, 2009 at 9:04 AM, Doug Haines <doha720@yahoo. co.uk> wrote: >> >> >> hi gardner, >> >>  my experience with sidecar which has lost its antifouling on the bottom >> from scraping across sand too much, but the glass and undercoat are fine. >> only the bows need heaps more than present, i noticed rob said 3 layers >> recently for harriette, where i only put one layer on sidecar - hence lot of >> easily damageablt points. >> i woulod have said the broad flattish bottom would not need reinforcing, >> just watch the antifouling, but the sharp bows, and also i have damaged >> quite deeply into my rudder blades on the bottom front tip - so kevlar, >> nylex ? and solid dense bog at the rudder tip. >> >> doug >> >> so decided how big a boat? >> remembered interest in sidecar while ago. >> >> --- On Fri, 24/4/09, Gardner Pomper <gardner@networknow. org> wrote: >> >> From: Gardner Pomper <gardner@networknow. org> >> Subject: [harryproa] Bottom construction for beaching? >> To: harryproa@yahoogrou ps.com.au >> Date: Friday, 24 April, 2009, 10:52 PM >> >> Hi, >> I was wondering how to make the keel of a harry tough enough to be able to >> beach it, for letting it dry out or working on it after the tide goes out. I >> figure just sitting there isn't too much of a problem, so long as it isn't >> an obsidian beach, but the boats always bounce a bit as the tide goes in and >> out. >> I was planning on 15mm Airex core, with 18oz biaxial fiberglass on either >> side.. Think I am ok with that, or should I add a 2nd layer of fiberglass? If >> I just do it below the waterline, I am only talking about a strip 12" wide >> or so (maybe 50 sq ft total), so the extra weight or expense isn't huge. I >> could even get some 12oz carbon twill for about $7/sq ft. >> Opinions? >> - Gardner >> >> > >