Gardner et al,   Moving into boatyard today, finally got a shed to use for the first time after many stays. wondering what to do to the boat. issue with MY rudders is that they are OK, certainly steer alright, but in the roughest times during my recent trek up and back down WA's midwest coast, the mini beam would catch a little white waterin the crests, as well as the bottom of the cheeks. I reckon moving forward back towards the beams by about a foot would be good, but it would mean redoing a bulkhead and minibeam in that position which is definitely too much inside hull fiddling. so eventhough the elementarry current plans have beams that are further from the ends than other boats, and my rudders on the beams before were too far forward, if i had an easy rig would my COE come further forward and so not need to leave the rudder so far back? i remember the boat used to pull up into the wind with the sail area behind the old rudders. (you can see a goo photo in PHOTOS showing redo work. i also reduced the beam ffrom 4.2m to 3.2m and lost plenty of weight in redoing the beams and deck, so thereby stopping that pull around from the ww hull.   my sail shape efficiency, drag versus lift was als rooted before so perhaps it would be safe to try rudders back on the Elementarry beams again.   Doug --- On Thu, 30/4/09, carlos Solanilla <carlosproacarlos@yahoo.com> wrote: From: carlos Solanilla <carlosproacarlos@yahoo.com> Subject: [harryproa] Light air sails To: harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au Date: Thursday, 30 April, 2009, 10:39 PM Gardner   Since you were talking about having a light air sail to be left for long runs - i.e. a long time in-between shunts, then   Have you consider doing a "tranportable" code zero type of screecher set up? What I have in mid is to have  a low stretch line like spectra from the top of the unstayed mast, have a screecher either on a spineaker sock or a wire with a furler.  On the LW hull you will need a pair of stainless steel bow pulpits where you will hook the tack of the sail,  and   on the opposite site the hull at the other bow tie the end of the line to compensate for the forces created by the screecher.   I would guess you could have a third line going back to the T-top of theWW hull creating a temporarily stayed mast   So the sequence of events would look like this: 1- pull the tack end of the sock from the LW hull hatch, walk it to the active bow and secure to rail 2 - pull the head of the sail, clip it the hailard 3 - walk the sheave to the other bow and raise the screcher/sock 4 - optional is take the haylard and tie it to the ww hull at the T-top center or whatever strong structure you have 5- open the sock and you are done 6- ready to shunt - reverse steps

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