Hi,
I have been experimenting with a 4 meter dory before starting on a harryproa and have learned a few things that might be interesting.
1. I have found some large rolls of 1.4 meter wide heavy duty clingfilm/saranwrap at the local diy. It has all the usual properties of clingfilm - sticking together, clumping etc. But also doesn't need to be taped and holes can be plugged after applying vacuum just by dropping a a small piece on the hole. Holes are very rare so far. I am using a shop vac at the moment (may change later) and find that the film makes a good seal around the non-smooth hose. I have had no problems with the film breaking under vacuum.
2. With the cling film I don't need a table - just use a double length of film at least for narrow panels, which is all I need for the dory. This saves a lot of set up time as I just use any smooth piece of ground instead of a table. This means working on the ground, which has lead to some aching hamstrings, but I am adapting and my assistants (all Thais) don't understand why my hamstrings hurt.
3. Given my experience to date with the film I don't expect any problems with wide panels.
4. The nylon I have used as peel ply is allowing lumps of resing to remain in the panels. This is partly because the resin I have used so far sets too quick in the Thai weather, which is usually well above 80 fahrenheit. I have located a supplier 1000 kilometers from here (ATOL) who say they can solve that problem.
5. I will try using only the cling film for most of the panel (except where the vaccum hose goes). This will allow me to see lumps and press them out when I have more pot life. It will mean the cling film won't come off, but as I will paint the hull, a light sanding prior painting (which would be necessary anyway) will remove it (I hope).
I am very happy with the clingfilm and think it solves lots of problems. Also, I don't see any reason to bother with a table.
Best regards
Herb
--- In harryproa@yahoogrou
>
> G'day,
>
> You will not save much by bagging the small panels individually. This
> is what blew the budget on Sol 1. It is quicker to nest them on a big
> sheet and cut them out afterwards.
>
> Wet laminating and bagging both sides in one hit is much quicker than
> setting up for infusion. Sealing the bag is time consuming, but good
> preparation and practice speeds it up, as does good tacky tape and a
> hole free bag.
>
> Tape down one long edge of the bag before you start wetting out, apply
> the tacky tape to the other edges and roll the bag and cover it to
> keep it out of harm's way. Run a piece of tape over the area to be
> sealed to so that resin cannot get onto it. Put the cloth on the
> table and have the drilled core, inner skin and vac stack all ready to
> go. Wet out the outer skin with a fluffy roller/, spread any wet
> areas with a squeegee. No need to be too careful. Wet out the core
> with a squeegee. Put the core in place and the next layer of glass on
> it. Wet it out with the fluffy roller. Remove the protective tape
> and apply the vac stack. The trick to long layup times is to spread
> the resin quickly. Leaving it in the pot is a disaster. An assistant
> to measure and mix resin is a good plan, as is premeasuring the resin
> and hardner so they only have to be mixed and stirred.
>
> Use the amount of resin in the absorber material (I use old carpet,
> costs nothing) as a guide to how much resin you need to apply next
> time. If it goes off too quickly, use slower resin, then throw a
> tarp over the vac bag with a couple of blower heaters underneath to
> speed it up.
>
> Fitting out and finish are the difference between boats I build and
> those built by professionals and proud owner builders. Your shell
> will take longer than mine as it is more complex, and you are
> learning what you can and can't get away with. My interior will be
> bare, to start with, the decks and beam tops will have non slip on
> them, the bottom antifouling, and the rest will be bare resin, at
> least for the first few months. Partly to show off what can be done
> off the table, partly so I can make any adjustments that become
> necessary. Suggest you get a breakdown of hours and materials and see
> how they compare. It is very difficult for builders to quote using
> a new build system, so the more it is broken down, the easier it is to
> fine tune the quote.
>
> regards,
> rob
>
Change settings via the Web (Yahoo! ID required)
Change settings via email: Switch delivery to Daily Digest | Switch format to Traditional
Visit Your Group | Yahoo! Groups Terms of Use | Unsubscribe