Don't need the UHMPWE. Can use any plastic (pvc drainpipe for
example, which is what I use on El). Loose enough to pull it out,
not loose enough to rattle.

Maybe a two part bunk, so that you can lift one end and sit with your
feet on the floor while you cook?

regards,

Rob

On Sat, May 16, 2009 at 12:32 PM, Doug Haines <doha720@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
>
>
> Multi posting this for harry group from the microcruisers group post I sent.
>
> On the mast pulling - Rob do I need that HDPTE whatever plastis smooth
> bearing stuff?
> How loose ?
> Only top and bottom bearing regions need be fitted to size with Q cells, so
> that saves the faioring job.
>
> More grinding today, itchy as.
>
> Hi,
>
> I'm redoing the cabin on Sidecar a harryproa.
> There is very little choice on layout because of the cabin beam is only
> about 750.. wide.
> I have about 3.5m of length, with a 2m long shelf off to one side.
> How to arrange things?
> The main lesson from the longish cruise recently was to seperate sleeping
> from daily activities so as to keep bedding very clean,
> and also if possible sperate cooking spot, and a space to put legs down to
> the floor .
>
> Any rules of thumb?
>
> Doug
> Maylands
> Perth
>
> --- On Sat, 16/5/09, Rob Denney <harryproa@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> From: Rob Denney <harryproa@gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [harryproa] opened up lw hull at centre
> To: harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au
> Date: Saturday, 16 May, 2009, 1:30 PM
>
> Make 'em looser fitting! Sand the epoxy inner shell of the bearing
> with a length of sandpaper, wrapped half way round the mast and pulled
> back and forth. Rotate the mast regularly and it will be almost lathe
> like in it's roundness.
>
> regards,
>
> Rob
>
> On Sat, May 16, 2009 at 10:14 AM, Doug Haines <doha720@yahoo. co.uk> wrote:
>>
>>
>> as i start making the insert section of lw hull, i need to include the
>> mast
>> lowering/raising pole that Rob suggetsed for Rapscallion?
>> I wonder if the mast can slide out easily enough.
>> had trouble with my ones which were a bit stuck in the  hull.
>>
>> doug
>>
>> --- On Fri, 15/5/09, Doug Haines <doha720@yahoo. co.uk> wrote:
>>
>> From: Doug Haines <doha720@yahoo. co.uk>
>> Subject: Re: [harryproa] opened up lw hull at centre
>> To: harryproa@yahoogrou ps.com.au
>> Date: Friday, 15 May, 2009, 9:36 PM
>>
>> hi,
>>
>> I also see that the inside of one half shell was 400g db, as I hadn't
>> reeceived the 260g glass. so that helps add to the torsion strength.
>> I'm confident the re will be plenty of strength, seeing as the righting
>> moment will be faily similar as before.
>> Beam may increase only a little bit and weight only a little.
>>
>> Maindifference will be ease of handling, astiffer mast, more sail for
>> 10-15knot winds, and longer waterline for the chop and high speed nose
>> down
>> improvement.
>>
>> Doug
>>
>> PS the kri cored parts )of the cabin) seem way heavier than the foam
>> recent
>> additions, should it be that much? Probably ob a simple spartan fitted out
>> boat like mine the shell construction will accoumnt for larger percentage
>> overall, and foam saves lots weight on kiri - which I checked out
>> yesterday
>> is way more expensive (nearly 2,5 times nore than foam!
>>
>> --- On Fri, 15/5/09, Doug Haines <doha720@yahoo. co.uk> wrote:
>>
>> From: Doug Haines <doha720@yahoo. co.uk>
>> Subject: [harryproa] opened up lw hull at centre
>> To: harryproa@yahoogrou ps.com.au
>> Date: Friday, 15 May, 2009, 7:05 PM
>>
>> hi,
>>
>> i cut through the lw hull, see the inside again.
>> couldn't glass the inside join along the top and bottom, but can do this
>> now
>> through the access opening. grinding inside very tough, but over and done
>> now. ground back 430.. for the joining next insert section. putting most
>> layers on inside, with only one db outside.
>>
>> doug
>>
>> --- On Fri, 15/5/09, Rob Denney <harryproa@gmail. com> wrote:
>>
>> From: Rob Denney <harryproa@gmail. com>
>> Subject: Re: [harryproa] Re: cling wrap
>> To: harryproa@yahoogrou ps.com.au
>> Date: Friday, 15 May, 2009, 2:31 PM
>>
>> G'day,
>>
>> Infusing Polycore will be a challenge. I think it would be quicker
>> and less prone to problems, but messier, to do it wet in two hits.
>>
>> Carpet or other bleed material over peel ply is very hard to remove
>> when it has resin in it. Use perforated plastic between the two. I
>> usually don't bother with the peel ply.
>>
>> I thought the cling film was the vac bag??
>>
>> Release agent is scary stuff and causes all sorts of problems with
>> pain finishes. Sanding gel, epoxy primer, peel ply or a thin layer of
>> bog are all solutions, as is scraping the surface before painting.
>> Sanding just spreads the release agent around, as does solvent wiping.
>> PVA (polyvinyl alcohol) is water based so a scotchbrite pad and a
>> hose will clean up the surface, but if your paint job is important to
>> you, I would not rely on it.
>>
>> On Fri, May 15, 2009 at 10:24 AM, Robert <cateran1949@ yahoo.co. uk>
>> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> The scrim is the skin welded on either side of the core for providing a
>>> surface that resin will stick to. Check out the polycore website
>>>
>>> http://www.polycore -australia. com.au/Polypropy lene-Honeycomb. php
>>> Though they don't seem to explain it particularly well.
>>> Nidacore explains it better though they are a slightly different product.
>>>
>>> Be interesting to see how Mark Stephens with the Pacific Cats does the
>>> double sided infusion with Polycore. Though, for the no rocker high
>>> prismatic coefficient hulls of a Harry, the semipermeable nature of the
>>> scrim, seems to me, to make vac bagging on a table simpler and/or lighter
>>> if
>>> you get the resin ratios right.
>>>
>>> About using cling wrap,seems to me, that some gas escape is needed on the
>>> top of the upper skin to avoid bubbles and subsequent voids. I suppose a
>>> squeegee or firm roller could chase out bubbles and surplus resin but I
>>> can
>>> see a disaster in the making if the wrap ruptured or bunched up. I think
>>> I
>>> would be more comfortable with old carpet over peel ply.
>>>
>>> On the bottom skin , I was wondering about the release agent and if it
>>> can
>>> cause any problem with subsequent painting or glassing. I was wondering
>>> about painting a very thin fairing epoxy and microballoon mix onto the
>>> table
>>> and letting it go to a green set and then putting down the panels. I
>>> don't
>>> know if there would be any advantage over peelply
>>>
>>> --- In harryproa@yahoogrou ps.com.au, Malcolm Phillips <malcolmdphillips@
>>> ...>
>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> This has been an interesting thread.
>>>>
>>>> By scrim did you mean the holes in the core to let the air through to
>>>> the
>>>> top,
>>>> or peel-ply under the panel?
>>>>
>>>> I assume that once you have made a panel you bend it into shape as if it
>>>> was
>>>> plywood?
>>>> How easy is it to bend? Do you have to do it before it is fully cured or
>>>> anything?
>>>>
>>>> thanks
>>>> Malcolm
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Thu, May 14, 2009 at 11:21 AM, Rob Denney <harryproa@. ..> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> >
>>>> >
>>>> > True, as far as excess resin is concerned, so you need to be more
>>>> > careful with your application. However, the scrim lets air through so
>>>> > there are no voids.
>>>> >
>>>> >
>>>> > On Thu, May 14, 2009 at 10:51 PM, Robert
>>>> > <cateran1949@ ...<cateran1949% 40yahoo.co. uk>>
>>>> > wrote:
>>>> > >
>>>> > >
>>>> > > -in polycore there is no such thing as a 1mm diameter hole. this
>>>> > > adds
>>>> > > 1kg
>>>> > > /m2. a dispersal medium loses the finish of the table. no such thing
>>>> > > as a
>>>> > > free lunch-- In
>>>> > > harryproa@yahoogrou ps.com.au<harryproa %40yahoog roups.com. au>,
>>>> > Rob Denney <harryproa@>
>>>> > > wrote:
>>>> > >>
>>>> > >> The foam is perforated (1mm dia hioles every 100mm or so. Lets the
>>>> > >> air and the exces resin out. Without the holes or a dispersal
>>>> > >> material underneath, you invariably get a huge air bubble where the
>>>> > >> vaccum cannot reach, regardless of how much resin is in there.
>>>> > >>
>>>> > >> regards,
>>>> > >>
>>>> > >> Rob.
>>>> > >>
>>>> > >> On Thu, May 14, 2009 at 8:31 PM, Robert <cateran1949@ > wrote:
>>>> > >> >
>>>> > >> >
>>>> > >> > I was wondering about the ability to remove excess resin when
>>>> > >> > making
>>>> > >> > wide
>>>> > >> > panels. I was thinking about single panels to make the bottom and
>>>> > >> > one
>>>> > >> > and a
>>>> > >> > half sides of the lw hull, about a 2.4 wide panel at its widest.
>>>> > >> > Derek
>>>> > >> > used
>>>> > >> > to do it on the table without bleeding or dispersal medium
>>>> > >> > underneath.
>>>> > I
>>>> > >> > suppose very careful measuring of resin would allow this.
>>>> > >> > In tropics, too long exposure to humidity can cause problems with
>>>> > epoxy,
>>>> > >> > but
>>>> > >> > If you are immediately covering it , then I suppose it is not a
>>>> > problem,
>>>> > >> > regards,
>>>> > >> > Robert
>>>> > >> > --- In harryproa@yahoogrou ps.com.au
>>>> > >> > <harryproa%40yahoog roups.com. au>,
>>>> > "Herb Desson" <squirebug@> wrote:
>>>> > >> >>
>>>> > >> >> Hi Rob,
>>>> > >> >>
>>>> > >> >> Not sure about the clingfilm manufacturer - the label is in
>>>> > >> >> Thai. Will see what I can find out about the thickness - it
>>>> > >> >> isn't
>>>> > much
>>>> > >> >> thicker than kitchen use film, but tough enough you can stand on
>>>> > >> >> it
>>>> > to
>>>> > >> >> unroll it without puncturing it (just once). I do all my work in
>>>> > >> >> bare
>>>> > >> >> feet,
>>>> > >> >> to reduce dust and punctures.
>>>> > >> >>
>>>> > >> >> The ground I use is a fairly smooth concrete carport (i.e.,
>>>> > >> >> garage
>>>> > >> >> without
>>>> > >> >> walls) floor. Not as smooth as a formica table probably, but no
>>>> > seams.
>>>> > >> >> Since
>>>> > >> >> I only do the top side, the core smooths out any minor
>>>> > >> >> unevenness
>>>> > >> >> and
>>>> > >> >> probably would hide any local uneveness less than 1/2 inch. My
>>>> > maximum
>>>> > >> >> local
>>>> > >> >> unevenness is maybe 1 millimeter.
>>>> > >> >>
>>>> > >> >> The carport works fine for the dory, and may be ok for an
>>>> > >> >> elementarry
>>>> > >> >> size
>>>> > >> >> boat. Bigger than that I will need to make a bigger carport or
>>>> > >> >> shed,
>>>> > >> >> which
>>>> > >> >> is not a problem for me as I have 4 hectares to work with.
>>>> > >> >>
>>>> > >> >> What I do is unroll the film, put the foam core on it, which
>>>> > >> >> mostly
>>>> > >> >> keeps
>>>> > >> >> it flat - beer bottles work pretty well to stop it from clumping
>>>> > >> >> in
>>>> > the
>>>> > >> >> breeze. Then I unroll the top layer of film and re-roll it (so I
>>>> > >> >> can
>>>> > >> >> unroll
>>>> > >> >> it quickly after the resin is applied. Then I apply the
>>>> > >> >> fiberglass
>>>> > (top
>>>> > >> >> side
>>>> > >> >> only), peel ply and vacuum set up. Then I unroll the film and do
>>>> > >> >> a
>>>> > dry
>>>> > >> >> run
>>>> > >> >> to check that the vacuum will work.
>>>> > >> >>
>>>> > >> >> After that I re-roll the film, apply the resin by pouring and
>>>> > >> >> rolling
>>>> > >> >> (or
>>>> > >> >> pushing it around by gloved hand), unroll the film and apply
>>>> > >> >> vacuum.
>>>> > I
>>>> > >> >> am
>>>> > >> >> not doing infusion, just vacuum to remove extra resin. Very
>>>> > >> >> simple
>>>> > >> >> really. I
>>>> > >> >> don't see much need to do two sides at once and hence no need
>>>> > >> >> for
>>>> > >> >> infusion.
>>>> > >> >>
>>>> > >> >> I have had no problems seeing where the film is, maybe because
>>>> > >> >> it
>>>> > >> >> is
>>>> > a
>>>> > >> >> bit
>>>> > >> >> thicker or maybe because I have shaded outdoor light, which is
>>>> > >> >> easier
>>>> > >> >> to see
>>>> > >> >> film in, instead of shop lights.
>>>> > >> >>
>>>> > >> >> For panles much bigger than 1 square meter this really works
>>>> > >> >> much
>>>> > >> >> better
>>>> > >> >> with assistants to control the film when unrolling after
>>>> > >> >> applying
>>>> > >> >> resin. It
>>>> > >> >> can get quite anxiety provoking and messy if it starts clumping
>>>> > >> >> with
>>>> > a
>>>> > >> >> time
>>>> > >> >> limit. Other than that step I have so far done everything by
>>>> > >> >> myself.
>>>> > >> >>
>>>> > >> >> I hadn't heard about bleeder cloth until today - guess I didn't
>>>> > >> >> do
>>>> > >> >> enough
>>>> > >> >> research, but I am happy with my work around. I think I still
>>>> > >> >> need
>>>> > >> >> a
>>>> > >> >> bit of
>>>> > >> >> peel ply to keep the vacuum hose from sticking to the panel, or
>>>> > >> >> at
>>>> > >> >> least to
>>>> > >> >> make it easier to take off - I find it difficult to remove the
>>>> > >> >> hose
>>>> > >> >> when
>>>> > >> >> resin accumulates without peel ply. But the peel ply can be only
>>>> > about
>>>> > >> >> 6
>>>> > >> >> inches wide, just enough to make the hose easy to remove. The
>>>> > >> >> vacuum
>>>> > >> >> hose is
>>>> > >> >> 5/8 inch clear plastic hose cut in a spiral that I lay around
>>>> > >> >> the
>>>> > panel
>>>> > >> >> and
>>>> > >> >> inside the shop vac hose. The cling film covers everything.
>>>> > >> >>
>>>> > >> >> Best regards
>>>> > >> >> Herb
>>>> > >> >>
>>>> > >> >> --- In harryproa@yahoogrou ps.com.au
>>>> > >> >> <harryproa%40yahoog roups.com. au>,
>>>> > Rob Denney <harryproa@> wrote:
>>>> > >> >> >
>>>> > >> >> > G'day,
>>>> > >> >> >
>>>> > >> >> > Good stuff! I have tried cling film in the past, but it was
>>>> > >> >> > too
>>>> > hard
>>>> > >> >> > to see where it was and wasn't. That was only 300mm wide. Any
>>>> > >> >> > idea
>>>> > >> >> > what thickness yours is? And who is the manufacturer?
>>>> > >> >> >
>>>> > >> >> > How do you keep the sheet flat if you bag it on the ground?
>>>> > >> >> >
>>>> > >> >> > It sounds as if you are not using a bleeder cloth? This goes
>>>> > >> >> > on
>>>> > >> >> > top
>>>> > >> >> > of the preforated plastic on top of the peel ply and soaks up
>>>> > surplus
>>>> > >> >> > resin, so there is none available for lumps.
>>>> > >> >> >
>>>> > >> >> > If you are sanding the panels anyway, peel ply is not
>>>> > >> >> > required.
>>>> > >> >> > The
>>>> > >> >> > ATL resin is great stuff, has out times of several days if
>>>> > required.
>>>> > >> >> >
>>>> > >> >> > regards,
>>>> > >> >> >
>>>> > >> >> > Rob
>>>> > >> >> >
>>>> > >> >> > On Thu, May 14, 2009 at 1:33 PM, Herb Desson <squirebug@>
>>>> > >> >> > wrote:
>>>> > >> >> > >
>>>> > >> >> > >
>>>> > >> >> > > Hi,
>>>> > >> >> > >
>>>> > >> >> > > I have been experimenting with a 4 meter dory before
>>>> > >> >> > > starting
>>>> > >> >> > > on
>>>> > a
>>>> > >> >> > > harryproa
>>>> > >> >> > > and have learned a few things that might be interesting.
>>>> > >> >> > >
>>>> > >> >> > > 1. I have found some large rolls of 1.4 meter wide heavy
>>>> > >> >> > > duty
>>>> > >> >> > > clingfilm/saranwrap at the local diy. It has all the usual
>>>> > >> >> > > properties
>>>> > >> >> > > of
>>>> > >> >> > > clingfilm - sticking together, clumping etc. But also
>>>> > >> >> > > doesn't
>>>> > need
>>>> > >> >> > > to
>>>> > >> >> > > be
>>>> > >> >> > > taped and holes can be plugged after applying vacuum just by
>>>> > >> >> > > dropping
>>>> > >> >> > > a a
>>>> > >> >> > > small piece on the hole. Holes are very rare so far. I am
>>>> > >> >> > > using a
>>>> > >> >> > > shop
>>>> > >> >> > > vac
>>>> > >> >> > > at the moment (may change later) and find that the film
>>>> > >> >> > > makes
>>>> > >> >> > > a
>>>> > >> >> > > good
>>>> > >> >> > > seal
>>>> > >> >> > > around the non-smooth hose. I have had no problems with the
>>>> > >> >> > > film
>>>> > >> >> > > breaking
>>>> > >> >> > > under vacuum.
>>>> > >> >> > >
>>>> > >> >> > > 2. With the cling film I don't need a table - just use a
>>>> > >> >> > > double
>>>> > >> >> > > length
>>>> > >> >> > > of
>>>> > >> >> > > film at least for narrow panels, which is all I need for the
>>>> > dory.
>>>> > >> >> > > This
>>>> > >> >> > > saves a lot of set up time as I just use any smooth piece of
>>>> > ground
>>>> > >> >> > > instead
>>>> > >> >> > > of a table. This means working on the ground, which has lead
>>>> > >> >> > > to
>>>> > >> >> > > some
>>>> > >> >> > > aching
>>>> > >> >> > > hamstrings, but I am adapting and my assistants (all Thais)
>>>> > >> >> > > don't
>>>> > >> >> > > understand
>>>> > >> >> > > why my hamstrings hurt.
>>>> > >> >> > >
>>>> > >> >> > > 3. Given my experience to date with the film I don't expect
>>>> > >> >> > > any
>>>> > >> >> > > problems
>>>> > >> >> > > with wide panels.
>>>> > >> >> > >
>>>> > >> >> > > 4. The nylon I have used as peel ply is allowing lumps of
>>>> > >> >> > > resing
>>>> > to
>>>> > >> >> > > remain
>>>> > >> >> > > in the panels. This is partly because the resin I have used
>>>> > >> >> > > so
>>>> > far
>>>> > >> >> > > sets too
>>>> > >> >> > > quick in the Thai weather, which is usually well above 80
>>>> > >> >> > > fahrenheit.
>>>> > >> >> > > I have
>>>> > >> >> > > located a supplier 1000 kilometers from here (ATOL) who say
>>>> > >> >> > > they
>>>> > >> >> > > can
>>>> > >> >> > > solve
>>>> > >> >> > > that problem.
>>>> > >> >> > >
>>>> > >> >> > > 5. I will try using only the cling film for most of the
>>>> > >> >> > > panel
>>>> > >> >> > > (except
>>>> > >> >> > > where
>>>> > >> >> > > the vaccum hose goes). This will allow me to see lumps and
>>>> > >> >> > > press
>>>> > >> >> > > them
>>>> > >> >> > > out
>>>> > >> >> > > when I have more pot life. It will mean the cling film won't
>>>> > >> >> > > come
>>>> > >> >> > > off,
>>>> > >> >> > > but
>>>> > >> >> > > as I will paint the hull, a light sanding prior painting
>>>> > >> >> > > (which
>>>> > >> >> > > would
>>>> > >> >> > > be
>>>> > >> >> > > necessary anyway) will remove it (I hope).
>>>> > >> >> > >
>>>> > >> >> > > I am very happy with the clingfilm and think it solves lots
>>>> > >> >> > > of
>>>> > >> >> > > problems.
>>>> > >> >> > > Also, I don't see any reason to bother with a table.
>>>> > >> >> > >
>>>> > >> >> > > Best regards
>>>> > >> >> > > Herb
>>>> > >> >> > >
>>>> > >> >> > > --- In
>>>> > >> >> > > harryproa@yahoogrou ps.com.au<harryproa %40yahoog roups.com.
>>>> > >> >> > > au>,
>>>> > Rob Denney <harryproa@> wrote:
>>>> > >> >> > >>
>>>> > >> >> > >> G'day,
>>>> > >> >> > >>
>>>> > >> >> > >> You will not save much by bagging the small panels
>>>> > >> >> > >> individually.
>>>> > >> >> > >> This
>>>> > >> >> > >> is what blew the budget on Sol 1. It is quicker to nest
>>>> > >> >> > >> them
>>>> > >> >> > >> on
>>>> > a
>>>> > >> >> > >> big
>>>> > >> >> > >> sheet and cut them out afterwards.
>>>> > >> >> > >>
>>>> > >> >> > >> Wet laminating and bagging both sides in one hit is much
>>>> > >> >> > >> quicker
>>>> > >> >> > >> than
>>>> > >> >> > >> setting up for infusion. Sealing the bag is time consuming,
>>>> > >> >> > >> but
>>>> > >> >> > >> good
>>>> > >> >> > >> preparation and practice speeds it up, as does good tacky
>>>> > >> >> > >> tape
>>>> > and
>>>> > >> >> > >> a
>>>> > >> >> > >> hole free bag.
>>>> > >> >> > >>
>>>> > >> >> > >> Tape down one long edge of the bag before you start wetting
>>>> > >> >> > >> out,
>>>> > >> >> > >> apply
>>>> > >> >> > >> the tacky tape to the other edges and roll the bag and
>>>> > >> >> > >> cover
>>>> > >> >> > >> it
>>>> > to
>>>> > >> >> > >> keep it out of harm's way. Run a piece of tape over the
>>>> > >> >> > >> area
>>>> > >> >> > >> to
>>>> > be
>>>> > >> >> > >> sealed to so that resin cannot get onto it. Put the cloth
>>>> > >> >> > >> on
>>>> > >> >> > >> the
>>>> > >> >> > >> table and have the drilled core, inner skin and vac stack
>>>> > >> >> > >> all
>>>> > >> >> > >> ready
>>>> > >> >> > >> to
>>>> > >> >> > >> go. Wet out the outer skin with a fluffy roller/, spread
>>>> > >> >> > >> any
>>>> > >> >> > >> wet
>>>> > >> >> > >> areas with a squeegee. No need to be too careful. Wet out
>>>> > >> >> > >> the
>>>> > core
>>>> > >> >> > >> with a squeegee. Put the core in place and the next layer
>>>> > >> >> > >> of
>>>> > glass
>>>> > >> >> > >> on
>>>> > >> >> > >> it. Wet it out with the fluffy roller. Remove the
>>>> > >> >> > >> protective
>>>> > tape
>>>> > >> >> > >> and apply the vac stack. The trick to long layup times is
>>>> > >> >> > >> to
>>>> > >> >> > >> spread
>>>> > >> >> > >> the resin quickly. Leaving it in the pot is a disaster. An
>>>> > >> >> > >> assistant
>>>> > >> >> > >> to measure and mix resin is a good plan, as is premeasuring
>>>> > >> >> > >> the
>>>> > >> >> > >> resin
>>>> > >> >> > >> and hardner so they only have to be mixed and stirred.
>>>> > >> >> > >>
>>>> > >> >> > >> Use the amount of resin in the absorber material (I use old
>>>> > >> >> > >> carpet,
>>>> > >> >> > >> costs nothing) as a guide to how much resin you need to
>>>> > >> >> > >> apply
>>>> > next
>>>> > >> >> > >> time. If it goes off too quickly, use slower resin, then
>>>> > >> >> > >> throw a
>>>> > >> >> > >> tarp over the vac bag with a couple of blower heaters
>>>> > >> >> > >> underneath
>>>> > >> >> > >> to
>>>> > >> >> > >> speed it up.
>>>> > >> >> > >>
>>>> > >> >> > >> Fitting out and finish are the difference between boats I
>>>> > >> >> > >> build
>>>> > >> >> > >> and
>>>> > >> >> > >> those built by professionals and proud owner builders. Your
>>>> > shell
>>>> > >> >> > >> will take longer than mine as it is more complex, and you
>>>> > >> >> > >> are
>>>> > >> >> > >> learning what you can and can't get away with. My interior
>>>> > >> >> > >> will
>>>> > be
>>>> > >> >> > >> bare, to start with, the decks and beam tops will have non
>>>> > >> >> > >> slip
>>>> > on
>>>> > >> >> > >> them, the bottom antifouling, and the rest will be bare
>>>> > >> >> > >> resin,
>>>> > at
>>>> > >> >> > >> least for the first few months. Partly to show off what can
>>>> > >> >> > >> be
>>>> > >> >> > >> done
>>>> > >> >> > >> off the table, partly so I can make any adjustments that
>>>> > >> >> > >> become
>>>> > >> >> > >> necessary. Suggest you get a breakdown of hours and
>>>> > >> >> > >> materials
>>>> > and
>>>> > >> >> > >> see
>>>> > >> >> > >> how they compare. It is very difficult for builders to
>>>> > >> >> > >> quote
>>>> > using
>>>> > >> >> > >> a new build system, so the more it is broken down, the
>>>> > >> >> > >> easier
>>>> > >> >> > >> it
>>>> > >> >> > >> is
>>>> > >> >> > >> to
>>>> > >> >> > >> fine tune the quote.
>>>> > >> >> > >>
>>>> > >> >> > >> regards,
>>>> > >> >> > >> rob
>>>> > >> >> > >>
>>>> > >> >> > >
>>>> > >> >> > >
>>>> > >> >> >
>>>> > >> >>
>>>> > >> >
>>>> > >> >
>>>> > >>
>>>> > >
>>>> > >
>>>> >
>>>> >
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>

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