Good points.
It is nice to learn from others mistakes;<)
--- In harryproa@yahoogrou
>
> Hi
>
> I've used a leeboard on my proa for a couple of years now. It's a smaller boat than BD, of course, and I'm not as clever as Rob in designing things that work the first time out, but for what it's worth here are a few things to think about:
>
> The leeboard should swing away from the hull when you go aback or tack, or should be strong enough to take the load from the wrong direction. I've put a sketch of how my boat is arranged at:
>
> photos -> non harryproa -> leeboard mount
>
> There's a 2" aluminum tube above the lee gunwale. The green bit clamps on to the tube, and is tight enough that the board doesn't float up in ordninary use. The board is bolted to the green mount. In ordinary use the board only pivots fore and aft. But if I go aback the green mount can twist on the tube, the board floats out and nothing breaks. I didn't think of this on my first leeboard mount.
>
> If your board pivots fore and aft, remember "aft" on one shunt is "fore" on the other. If you hit ground on starboard and the board kicks up (aft, towards the port bow), then if you shunt to get out of the shallows the board is in the wrong direction. You have to haul it up or it will 'spear' the bottom and hold you there. It would be good to have it go to the new aft, but the water is too shallow to swing it under the boat... Not big deal on my little 21'er, but maybe an issue on a big boat.
>
> Kevin
>
>
> --- In harryproa@yahoogrou
> >
> > Hi,
> >
> > Today we have tried sailing with the leeboard I made using a Tom Speer proa 3 series foil.
> > The foil was 1.5m deep. I didn't want to make it taller as loads might get too high for the materials used.
> > It is wood, ply over a post of Douglas pine I had lying about 190x45 mm. I used ply frames to get right shape and a pine strip with rebates at both ends to take the ply skins.
> > It sure looked ok and it worked up to the moment I luffed to fast and killed it. It broke just at where the ply stopped.
> > With the board we just pulled the sheet and sailed off after hoisting the sails.
> > We had to work the board sometimes to get it alongside the lw hull. When it got working I could decrease the rudder angle. We stopped several times to do things and simply pulled the sheet and got going.
> > After the board broke and we got it out of the water I pulled the sheet and we luffed into the wind. We had to get it downwind and then it went.
> > With both main and jib up.
> > Wind was about 8-10knots. We had flat water, contrary to the first time
> > It occured to me the finish of the rudders which is less then perfect might have something to do with this also.
> > It seems that by polishing your rudder you can get 20 % more lift from it. So no paint and halfway filling and sanding may not be improving things.
> >
> > regards,
> > Rudolf
> >
>
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