Subject: [harryproa] Re: Rudders and Rob's new build inspires new layout
From: gardner@networknow.org
Date: 11/2/2009, 10:14 AM
To: harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au
Reply-to:
harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au

 

Hi Rob,

Questions are inline.

--- In harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au, Rob Denney <harryproa@...> wrote:
>
> Looks good. I'd lay out the ww hull panels differently, so that the joins
> were in the flat areas, not the bent ones. Then the bent ones can be solid
> glass, so no filling, coving or taping is needed.

I am not sure what you mean. I haven't drawn panels yet. I was thinking 1 narrow flat panel with foam for the keel, then 1 panel for each side with enough of a solid glass lip to reach half way across the flat bottom panel. Glue all 3 panels together, then bend up so that the radius coming off the keel was solid glass. Can you explain more about what you are referring to? I'm really confused as to what you are referring to.

I also have not addressed how to attach the bridgedeck to the ww hull. The crossbeams hold up the bridgedeck, but are not attached to the ww hull, so there needs to be a strong attachment between the two. I am thinking maybe 4 bolts in reinforced solid glass pads.

I am also thinking that I should be able to take the dinghy off and slide the crossbeams into the ww hull and reduce the beam to 14' for a marina slip.

> Maybe also make the lee
> hull sides less flared so there is room for the mast step and to help it
> resist twisting. 39' 11" rather than 38', unless there is a reason not to.

Do you mean just make it 2' wide at the waterline too, with vertical sides? I am ok with that. I worry about the tolerances of only having 1" wiggle room getting the boat into the container. I'll be perfectly happy to go with 39', though.

>
> The rudders on the stub beams should work as that location has been tried
> before. I would not make them any smaller on the basis of having a leeboard
> as the time the full area is needed most is just after a shunt, when the lee
> board is likely to be stalled. I think. Rudolph's experience and
> experiments have put all my former ideas on leeboards on hold.
>
> A telescoping mast is one option, but will be pretty hard work to raise as
> it will weigh over 100 pounds. Easy enough with an electric winch or winch
> handle. Schooner rig is another easy option and a two piece, non
> telescoping mast a third.

The schooner rig is somewhat appealling. We have a schooner race in the Chesapeake bay every year for those people who love traditional boats. I can imagine the howling if I tried to enter with a schooner harryproa <grin>.

Anyway, I still have sail area issues with a schooner. with a 39' mast, after bury, boom and deck clearance, I probably can't get much more than a 32' luff, and the boom is restricted to 8.5' to avoid hitting anything when backwinded, so I can't really get more than 217 sq ft on each mast. Definitely at the low end of what I want, but a longer boom would require raising it to above the bridgedeck hardtop, and then I have to raise and widen the lw hull so that I could actually reach the boom. I'll keep working with the schooner idea and see if I can get better numbers on the weight.

>
> The ACC guys would be very keen to build it. They are far more precise than
> I am, would take a bit longer, but would make a better job of it. The extra
> time would be more than compensated for by the time saving ideas we have
> already come up with. They could also build you the panels for you to
> assemble.
>

That's good to know. Once you get your boat built, and mine is more firmed up, I would like to get a ballpark "budgetting" quote to see if it would be reasonable to have them build it. They will have the knowledge and experience to take advantage of all your timesaving ideas.

Just making the panels is an idea, but making the panels is the one thing I thought I was cabable of making <grin>.

Thanks,
- Gardner

> regards,
> Rob
>
>
>
>
>
> On Mon, Nov 2, 2009 at 11:40 AM, Gardner Pomper <gardner@...>wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > Hi,
> >
> > I have been watching the rudder discussions with great interest, and
> > Rob's Solitarry build with absolute fascination. Putting these things
> > together, along with some new thoughts on how to break down a boat to
> > fit in a container has made me rework the files in "Gardners
> > layouts/Solo". Look at solo38_front, side and top.
> >
> > I moved the rudders to stub beams so they are further apart, so can
> > hopefully be smaller. I have not drawn in a leeboard, but I am still
> > thinking about it.
> >
> > In terms of containerizability, it occurred to me that I could build
> > each hull, then build a 7.5 foot wide cockpit. The top view shows how
> > they lay out into a shipping container.
> >
> > I am not that happy with the lack of sail area. I am drawing it with a
> > collapsable main, like Solitarry but the most sail area I can get is
> > about 400 sq ft. I think this design will be about the same weight as
> > a harry, but it has slightly less sail are. I am not sure how to
> > increase that and still fit the mast into a 40' container, other than
> > Rob's extendable mast. Suggestions are welcome.
> >
> > Question for Rob: since this can fit in a container, it becomes
> > possible to have it built overseas. Is the guy who is working on yours
> > considering building other harrys in the future? I might be
> > interested.
> >
> > - Gardner
> > York, PA
> >
> >
>

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