Subject: Re: [harryproa] Re: New photos Solitarry 2
From: Rob Denney
Date: 11/2/2009, 8:23 AM
To: harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au
Reply-to:
harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au

 

What you see is the insert (or plant as the infusers call it) for the windows.  On the inside of this is a 50mm wide flange on which the windows are bedded.  So the size of unsupported window is considerably less than the insert.  There are also pillars so the window is split into three seperate pieces.   Assuming the 6mm acrylic windows are strong enough, they will need to knock out a sizable chnunk of reinforcing.  For sure there are waves out there that could do this, but hopefully I am never in the same place as they are!  The boat is also very light, which will make it easier to knock sideways, thus reducing the wave loads.


Rudolph, hull bottom is 2 x 400 db with a 200 wide overlap down the middle and a layer of 450 uni.  Plenty strong, but a bit flexible.  There is a bulkhead at each end which will stiffen it up.  May need another in the middle or a layer of uni across the hull if it is going to dry out a lot.    Much wider than this (400mm) and I would use foam without glass on the inside, then glass it after bending.  Pretty sure the next one will be flat bottomed, with large solid glass radii, so won't be a problem.

Can you tell us more about the proposed keel, please.

rob

On Mon, Nov 2, 2009 at 5:39 PM, heinrich_meurer <meurer@airborneminescan.com> wrote:
 



I agree - let the sunshine in... but would one have to considre the structural strength of windows this size lying to a sea anchor and exposing the ww hull at an angle of say 30 degrees to breaking waves to have both bows meet the waves at about the same instance?
Heinrich



--- In harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au, Rob Denney <harryproa@...> wrote:
>
> Windows are pretty large, but I like a lot of light. Will put some hatches
> in the roof if it gets too hot. Should have put rebates in the laminate to
> make it easy. Next time.
>
> DERs (deck edge radii, one of Kelsalls strokes of genius) are pretty
> forgiving in one direction (they work from a bit more of a right angle
> through to paralell. Not so forgiving if the bend is along the DER as it is
> in Sol's roof. Would have needed a bunch of cuts, which then need bogging.
> Easier to router the ccorner and fillet the inside. Probably easier still
> to screw a piece of 100mm/4" plastic pipe along the inside, trim the edge to
> expose the tube and glass over it. May still do this. The horizontal bits
> at the bows could not be part of the panel, the vertical parts should have
> had glass on one side only. All could have had DER's.
>
> Tough about your play/life balance! I spent 2 hours at the boat today,
> spent the whole time talking. Might start working nights and sleeping while
> Katy is at school!
>
> rob
>
> On Mon, Nov 2, 2009 at 7:18 AM, robert <cateran1949@...> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > I was thinking about the escape hatch
> > I agree about being on the lee side so most of the time there will be
> > little in the way of waves against it. My argument for having mine on the
> > lee side bevel on the ww hull. Small screw in access hatch makes it easy for
> > your style.
> >
> > So far my only concern on Solitarry is the window area seems a bit large
> > for your cruising grounds as it could get a little warm, though the screw in
> > hatch down below would certainly increase ventilation. Make it one of the
> > bigger ones, and you can hang a line out for fresh fish while preparing the
> > veges.
> >
> > Conic sections with DERs theoretically should be doable. There is always a
> > little bit of thickness to the panels and slight compounding when bending,
> > but the DERs are supposed to be fairly forgiving of tolerances.
> > With curved panels, is it possible to overlap so that the origami of the
> > areas below the roof can be done in one piece. I am thinking of those areas
> > where the bow starts to curve in and the bridge deck has to follow
> > Very encouraging about the bendable panels
> >
> > Stalled on our boat for a few weeks or so. Had to finish marking, had a bit
> > of my ear chopped off(too much time on the water under Australia sun) and
> > now step daughter is studying so I can't make any noise. Meanwhile, am being
> > unofficial admin assistant for the admiral until her real one turns up. Too
> > much time on the computer for sanity.
> >
> >
> > --- In harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au <harryproa%40yahoogroups.com.au>, Rob
> > Denney <harryproa@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Agree about the DER, as long as the panels can be pre curved.
> > >
> > > Which hatch are you referring to? The escape hatch is pretty easy to seal
> > > with a cross bar on the inside and a 4" screw hatch for access,
> > particularly
> > > as it is on the lee side of the ww hull and mostly away from the waves.
> > > Otherwise it will be the tabs on the inside.
> > >
> > > Fitted the seats today, very simple with the bendable panels.
> > >
> > > regards,
> > > rob
> > >
> > > On Sat, Oct 31, 2009 at 1:22 PM, robert <cateran1949@> wrote:
> > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > With precurving and DER the hand laying would be reduced to the
> > bulkheads
> > > > and the lower bow. DERs would also reduce drag
> > > > I like the ease of moulds. Just a couple of saw horses and a couple of
> > > > pieces of timber clamped together. I can see where nesting and reducing
> > > > later joins could be improved, especially with a slightly longer table.
> > > > Don't know how you are going to seal the hatch and provide ingress
> > without
> > > > special tools. I suppose a hinge on the bottom and a couple of handles
> > at
> > > > the top could do it, or some tabs on the inside rotated into slots with
> > a
> > > > couple of handles on the outside to provide some torque
> > > > .
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --- In harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au <harryproa%40yahoogroups.com.au><harryproa%

> > 40yahoogroups.com.au>, Rob
> >
> > > > Denney <harryproa@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Pretty fast, but there are more straight lines than most people would
> > be
> > > > > happy with.
> > > > >
> > > > > No DER on the roof panel as it is curved which would require a lot of
> > > > cuts
> > > > > and bogging. Also, I was not 100% certain of the finished shape (lack
> > of
> > > > > faith in my modelling ability and how much curvature was possible).
> > We
> > > > can
> > > > > now make precurved panels so maybe the next one.....
> > > > >
> > > > > The file is an Excel spreadsheet, works for me when Excel is open.
> > Let me
> > > > > know if there is another format I can use.
> > > > >
> > > > > Good luck with the lee board. Look forward to the results.
> > > > >
> > > > > Robert,
> > > > >
> > > > > The bends are solid glass, except for the hull/bridge deck which is 2
> > > > pieces
> > > > > of glass, bent (solid glass next time) and the sides/roof which is
> > > > standard
> > > > > rounded outside, coved and tabbed inside, see above. I tried a couple
> > of
> > > > > pre made joins for the ends, but as son as you have to start cutting
> > and
> > > > > shutting, tabbing is quicker, neater and lighter, especially iof you
> > do
> > > > the
> > > > > cove and the tab in one hit.
> > > > >
> > > > > rob
> > > > > On Thu, Oct 29, 2009 at 6:30 PM, rpvdb@ <rpvdb@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Hi Rob,
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Great photos, thanks for posting.
> > > > > > This seems a very fast method, congratulations!
> > > > > > How are you going to join the panels? I don't see the famous
> > Kelsall
> > > > DER.
> > > > > > The file containing hours and costs is mixed up when I open it.
> > > > > > Am I doing something wrong?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > BTW, new test sail with leeboard tomorrow.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Regards,
> > > > > > Rudolf
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>


__._,_.___
Recent Activity
Visit Your Group
Y!7 Toolbar

Get it Free!

easy 1-click access

to your groups.

Yahoo!7 Groups

Start a group

in 3 easy steps.

Connect with others.

.

__,_._,___