Subject: Re: [harryproa] ruddershaft construction
From: Rob Denney
Date: 12/15/2009, 8:03 PM
To: harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au
Reply-to:
harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au

 

Carbon cloth should not be any different to glass cloth, but both are more difficult than (most) knitted double bias or biax. 

Not a problem on the little ones, but balance the laminate (glass/uni/glass/uni/glass etc) on the bigger ones or the laminate may twist or warp when curing and will impart weird forces under load. 

Using carbon for the off axis loads is a pretty expensive way to save a few kgs.  On Rare Bird's mast, glass off axis added 18 kgs (mostly down low), saved a couple of grand. 

Surprising the bag blew part way through the job.  Could be caused by heat from the laminate and a small bridge formed as the laminate settled into position.  Not much you can do about this except try to ensure there are no possible bridges.

The rest of the lessons are ones everyone learns when using bags.  The trick is to only learn them once!

regards,

rob

On Tue, Dec 15, 2009 at 6:33 PM, robert <cateran1949@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
 

Today I tried pressure moulding some Harriette rudder shafts. I learnt: that carbon cloth is a lot more difficult to handle than glass cloth; after setting up the pressure bag it is not a good idea to try and unseal it to let out a bit of air when one's hands have got some talcum powder from the gloves as it makes it very hard to reseal; also if things get sticky with resin the tacky tape doesnt stick as well; when taking apart the mould to re-seal the bag and then putting it together again, it is important to make sure the end plates are put back in before repressuring. I managed to hold about two atmospheres for a while before the bag blew, so hopefully it will be good enough for a Harriette rudder shaft. If not, it was worth it for learning the mistakes before the Harry shaft.
Things that went well: the wet out machine worked a treat, though only a couple of pieces of tow at a time to be able to pull through the guides with enough pressure to keep the resin ratio down ; the kitchen scales made it easy to get accurate mixing; the mould worked well and with different inserts can be used for a number of different sections including Harry rudder shafts, beam corner rods, and mini beams. Larger sections would probably be easier as there would be a better match between the pressure bag and the mould and there would be more space to work. In the larger sections I am thinking that the outside and inside cross fibres in glass would make it easier to control and just have the inner cross fibres in carbon.


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