450 seems right for a 12/8.5 Harry but this is a 15/10. 600 is probably overkill but the extra core, glass and resin adds about 150kg. Significant but its not going to sink it. It may be less than this as there is reduced need for ring frames. Also, I want to walk on the roof and deck and I weigh over 100kgs and I want a flat surface to walk on. This is a cruising boat
The extra core thickness is not much more weight and improves insulation.
Total core, resin and glass is hopefully about 650kg. This is about 180m2 of core at about a kg/m2 and glass and resin to average about 1.3kg a side with the reinforcing and tabbing. If I can get within 1 tonne in total, it is still a very light set of hulls and crossbeams. Haven't worked out the weight of the rudders, masts and leeboard yet but hope fully less than 180kg all up.
How heavy are the ogive sections Rob left in WA?
--- In harryproa@yahoogrou ps.com.au, Doug Haines <doha720@... > wrote:
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> sounds overly thick core and skins.
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> --- On Fri, 2/4/10, robert <cateran1949@ ...> wrote:
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> From: robert <cateran1949@ ...>
> Subject: [harryproa] Re: glass corners
> To: harryproa@yahoogrou ps.com.au
> Date: Friday, 2 April, 2010, 20:38
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> Is 50-70mm radius reasonable for bending 2x600g glass skins?
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> I am going through the steps for bending the ww hull sheets. I was thinking of making the sheets 2.4 m wide with 15mm core, 600g glass both sides and about 70mm strips without the core for the bending. I was also thinking of tapering the core over about 30mm to avoid sudden changes in angle of the cloth.
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> --- In harryproa@yahoogrou ps.com.au, Rob Denney <harryproa@ ..> wrote:
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> > On Fri, Apr 2, 2010 at 11:11 AM, George Kuck <chesapeake410@ ...> wrote:
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> > > Hello Rob
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> > > What method would you use to maintain the sculptured round look of 12 M Harrypros ? What method do the current plans show for foam core construction ?
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> > There are no current plans for sculptured, round foam conctruction,
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> > although it would be easy enough to use the strip planked ones and use
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> > foam with uni glass on one or both sides instead of timber.
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> > > I would assume that it might be built using vertical strip foam such as is used for F-boats.
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> > Could do, although you have to virtually build a strip planked mould
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> > before you lay the foam so i don't see this as being very quick.
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> > Heating foam to bend it is also a nightmare in my experience.
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> > > With foam would you need to put wood stringers on mold or are the mold stations close enough together that you could use foam strips lengthwise over mold forms ? For WW hull would a combination of flat panel with strip foam for bottom and hull deck curve work ?
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> > Not very well. The change from compound to non compound would be a
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> > nuisance. Could make this happen at the cockpit level if you had the
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> > windward overhag, but otherwise you are in for a lot of fairing.
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> > > I do not think there would be much advantage to this method on LW hull since the side panels would not be vary wide.
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> > Agreed, I would use a single panel and bend it to make the hull and
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> > decks. I would advise you to do this hull first as once you have seen
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> > how easy it is, you might change your mind about the necessity of the
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> > compound curves on the other hull.
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> > > Robert,
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> > I don't think the KSS would make much of a ww decks and cabin on a
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> > standard harry. Too many cuts and shuts, too much fairing and too
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> > much difficulty getting the KSS frames set up to do the bending.
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> > Suspect his is partly why Derek doesn't like curved decks. The other,
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> > more important part is that they are hard work to walk on, build and
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> > fair.
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> > rob
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