No way I don't mind at all If I did I wouldn't bother sharing experiences. It be nice to get feed back from some else who has tried the set up.
Just for the recorded though I have built two full size proas.
1st one is in Duckworks online mag. 2002 -2003.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hep6jzWf_Zc
Drawing off everything I have experienced so far in regards to proas or shunting craft and my philosophy on how they should sail. Working on a third.
Nope I sail out of Long Beach California. Carlos emailed me and said he'd be out my way. He never got back to me on the third or forth email. Told him to come sail my boat.
Todd
--- In harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au, Gardner Pomper <gardner@...> wrote:
>
> Welcome back. I had no idea you had built a full size proa until
> Carlos from Miami called me to tell me to check out your videos. I am
> captivated by your rudders and steering arrangement. I hope you don't
> mind if I shamelessly copy them on my 20' plywood proa.
>
> I have been trying to get a clue as to where you are from the videos,
> but I can't tell. I would love to see your boat in person. Are you
> anywhere near the Chesapeake bay?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jun 7, 2010, at 7:05 PM, "bitme1234" <bitme1234@...> wrote:
>
> > I'm back .....
> >
> > Cause I really wanted to post to this.
> >
> > This is pretty interesting stuff. The thing I found using my own JR
> > is when you set up the halyard to be fixed to the center of yard
> > this alone helps to control twist of sail along with having battens
> > running horizontal on sail? I also have my downhaul almost at center
> > on boom. It seems to me having pressure created from wind in front
> > of mast on sail actually keeps the twist out and a uniformed
> > trailing edge without excessive curvature. When I added the camber
> > to my sail with darts I put the camber at mid chord. This may or may
> > not add to better twist control as well. Found the same to be true
> > on trapezoidal sail the battens and (yard pivot)how far in front of
> > mast the yard is plays a roll in controlling twist. The trap sail is
> > flat cut with flat battens. Or this could be just another obscurity
> > of misinformation?
> >
> > Todd
> >
> > --- In harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au, Rob Denney <harryproa@> wrote:
> > >
> > A solution
> > > (not the one used by James, whose sail has a lot of twist) to the
> > sheeting
> > > angle conundrum may be to put up a backstay and run the sheetlets
> > to pulleys
> > > tied to it. The sheetlets can then be lead down to the deck and to
> > the
> > > helmsman. Less drag as you have one big bundle, rather than a
> > bunch of
> > > little ones, and the pull is horizontal instead of near vertical.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > rob
> > >
> > >
> > > On Sat, May 29, 2010 at 1:56 PM, robert <cateran1949@> wrote:
> > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > I had a good look at the sheeting arrangements. They sheet way
> > back to the
> > > > stern. This would not really go with the Harryproa configuration
> > of sheeting
> > > > back to the ww hull. Posssibly sheet back to a pulley midway
> > betweent the
> > > > two bows. I suspect the hinge would have to be made extra strong
> > to handle
> > > > the different sheeting arrangements. If the timber wishbones
> > were skinned
> > > > with some carbon tow, they should handle the extra loads. It
> > would probably
> > > > be worth it aiming for an optimum leeward shape.
> > > > I don't particularly like the wrinkles on the ww side. Possibly
> > cutting the
> > > > sails on the bias could smooth things.
> > > >
> > > > I am concerned about the sheeting angles. Hopefully Gardner can
> > sort it out
> > > > before I commit.
> > > > regards,
> > > > Robert
> > > >
> > > > --- In harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au <harryproa
> > %40yahoogroups.com.au>, Mike
> > > > Crawford <jmichael@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Robert,
> > > > >
> > > > > << you could get away with rice bags and still have a
> > reasonable shape>>
> > > > >
> > > > > Precisely! I'm not sure if it would be a premium racing rig, but
> > > > > while cruising, it seems to me that the average sail shape,
> > particularly
> > > > > in light winds, would be superior to a bermuda rig.
> > > > >
> > > > > To get the right sail shape with a single skin takes time, in
> > terms of
> > > > > adjusting leech/outhaul/vang (no vang with fixed boom), and
> > money, in
> > > > > terms of sail cloth, track, and battens.
> > > > >
> > > > > Plus, the battens that work at 40 knots will be to stiff for
> > five
> > > > > knots, and the battens that work at five knots will be too
> > flexible for
> > > > > 40. I'm tired of yanking on my boom to get the battens to
> > switch over
> > > > > in light winds. I like to sail, but I'm not the kind of guy
> > who would
> > > > > keep three sets of battens on hand in order to have just the
> > right
> > > > > strength for the day's winds. So I have a medium-stiff set that
> > > > > functions in all winds, but really isn't good for light or
> > heavy weather.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > <<The strings need not be a big source of drag with dyneema
> > but one
> > > > > would need some gloves.>>
> > > > >
> > > > > Agreed. Though I'd probably try to use dyneema on all the
> > individual
> > > > > lines, feeding into a single wider-diameter mainsheet (one
> > shet per bow,
> > > > > of course) that would be easier to handle and cleat.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > <<Some people swear by junk rigs and this makes more sense to
> > me than a
> > > > > straight junk.>>
> > > > >
> > > > > Particularly if you want to go upwind. I'll daysail much more
> > often
> > > > > than I go cruising, so going upwind is a big deal. A friend of
> > mine
> > > > > says one spends 70% of one's time sailing upwind, and I have
> > to agree.
> > > > > If I just go out and back for the day, the windward phase is
> > noticeably
> > > > > slower, and covers a lot more distance, than the leeward phase.
> > > > >
> > > > > - Mike
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > On 5/27/2010 7:29 AM, robert wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Hi Mike
> > > > > > I am with you on this rig: you could get away with rice bags
> > and still
> > > > > > have a reasonable shape; the sheet loads are lighter; it's
> > easily
> > > > > > reefable; if the top section rotted out, it would be easy to
> > replace
> > > > > > without wrecking the lines of the sails; there's no sail
> > track to buy
> > > > > > or jam; and the battens can be low tech. The strings need
> > not be a big
> > > > > > source of drag with dyneema but one would need some gloves.
> > I will
> > > > > > have to make up my mind before I start trying to set up for
> > making the
> > > > > > masts. A simple tapered section makes the most sense and it
> > wouldn't
> > > > > > need the bearings of a lot of other rigs.
> > > > > > Apart from not being common I am not sure what the problems
> > with it
> > > > > > are for a cruising rig. Some people swear by junk rigs and
> > this makes
> > > > > > more sense to me than a straight junk.
> > > > > > Robert
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
>