----- Original Message -----From: Dennis CoxSent: Monday, August 16, 2010 2:33 PMSubject: Re: [harryproa] Segmented Hulls
Peter,I can't really tell where you live... but yes... 40' was a HARD limit... because that the legal trailer limit here in the US.Funny you mentioned the tender. It was a passing thought of mine also. Actually make some cross beams and you've got a nice little catamaran tender. Ten feet long, say 6' across.Dennis
From: Peter Southwood <peter.southwood@telkomsa.net>
To: harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au
Sent: Mon, August 16, 2010 8:08:33 AM
Subject: Re: [harryproa] Segmented Hulls
Make the main hulls short enough to fit inside 40ft containers. It may only be a few inches less than your plan and it makes the boat a lot more versatile for moving around.I like the idea of an end cone for aligning and connecting the end sections which can act as a bow or stern in an emergency. Put another collision bulkhead a short way from that in case of damage and you will have a pretty survivable vessel.You might even find a way to take the extension bows and make a catamaran tender from them, but that is probably not worth the effort.Cheers,Peter----- Original Message -----From: Dennis CoxSent: Monday, August 16, 2010 1:36 PMSubject: [harryproa] Segmented Hulls
I changed the name, since I'm interested in both aspects.70'tr - Although, I did mention that number... it really never was a real number for me. Something larger kind of popped up during the Godzilla analyses. http://au.groups.yahoo.com/group/harryproa/photos/album/1895445482/pic/list Based on the weight I decided I needed (well... the Admiral needed) for a cruiser that I'd be willing to live on (at least for several months) I settled on a round number... 10,000 lbs. Since its prudent and fast and relatively easier to check for the flying windward case, I cut Godzilla loose... I don't recall where Godzilla was heading, but I know, I put a stop to the madness.However... not before going down to the basement and checking out my constraints. I found that if I knocked out a wall... (no big loss... it was only studded and rough dry walled.) I could go to 60 feet. So my design and build start is 60 feet.Segmenting - Although I can get all 60' in the workspace, I do plan on segmenting for trailering. I imagined (no real experience) that it would be easier to get the proper curves with the stripping with the hull in one piece. I'd then cut the ends off and build the bulkheads. On the main piece the bulkheads will be convex out by about a foot. I'll shape them as close as I can to form a stubby bow. The thought being... that if I damage (or lose in a storm) I can still function as a Proa. I plan on making the "sticking-out" parts being the hinges on the top side. I haven't fully checked out the scenario, but I'm hoping that I can pivot them up and over and rest them on the main hull. That way its full length is 40' on both hulls at the slip. The bow ends will have the mating convex bulkhead and I'll use large "pins" inserted from the top to hold it in place.Dennis
From: proaconstrictor <proaconstrictor@yahoo.ca>
To: harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au
Sent: Mon, August 16, 2010 1:54:09 AM
Subject: [harryproa] Re: Minimum Resistance Hulls
As you know the basic process is to make the hull as one piece with closely spaced bulkheads then saw them appart. That does sound as though there would be some accumulation of materials in making that all right. I guess a good 410 budget might be required. The Gougeon designed and built Adrenaline was campaigned in europe for a bit on the F40 cicuit, and the boat was about 4or so feet too long. The nose was on and off repeatedly. they used a joint they seem to prefer which consists of turning a taper on stainless tube, and then those are bonded into both sides of the joint with the tapered end having release on it.
Another option would be to build segments of the hull as Rob did on the original Harry, finish them waterproof (not even a challenge if they are foam and glass). On a strip boat this is actually how some halves are assembled in the first place with glass tapers. In that case a lot of work would end up being done out of doors. Which might or not suit. But it isn't so bad if the boat reaches a certain stage of completion where it never again needs to be threatened by bad weather. It is the early stages when it is fragile. However, a less comprehensive approach would be a scaled up version of what Rod does with his crash ends, where the bitter end of the hulls is a foam prothetic. OK, maybe 10 feet of that is a bit much, but it could be something a little more solid, and just glue it one there,and you are off to the launch, ok paint first...
I think something a little more flexible could be worked out. We get pretty crazy about the finishes we want on boats. I think something like a folding knuckle could be arranged, and yet the disturbance in water flow would probably not be any more than someone draging a hand in the water. As a canoeist, hand dragging gets to me, but it isn't all that noticeable on a 40 or 70 foot boat.
Another idea I had, not for the 70 footer was to make a scarph in the middle of the LW an overlap, screw it together with nice big marine grade acme screws, anchor it with the tube that secures the spar. So the hulls could be reduce almost by half, for demountability. Not trailer sailing, but at least an occasional reduction in length.
--- In harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au, Doug Haines <doha720@...> wrote:
>
> I don't understand the decoupling of a hull, ie. taking thebows off to fit a container or wrkspace.
> I see why you may see it as a soloution to a problem, but how is it done without some wobble, and sticky out parts underwater?
> Â
> Doug
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