Did you mention what kind of epoxy you are using? For wood structures I cure up to 170 degrees F, but WEST, as an example, actually doesn't need it. I think they say no more than 150 is needed. Many epoxies will eventually get to considerable hardness, but are rubbery at the outset. WEST is pretty hard right after cure, which makes it nice for stuff like tortured ply hulls where lessor glues have torn during fold up, while WEST never does. I tend to use WEST for highly loaded stuff, though there are lots of brands out there that are designed for equivalent uses. I haven't found a superior boat brand though, but use all kinds of stuff depending on price and the application since many uses are not all that demanding.
I made a wooden trailer for my tri at one point, and the glue I used for that, a 50/50 mix, was really soft for 3 months, but recently while rebuilding parts of it 20 years down the road, it seemed very hard. I had a similar experience with EAST System, it was one of the glues that really let me down and ruined a hull. So I got all over a pal of mine that was using the stuff on a large cat, and he showed me cured chips that where painful to handle, they were so hard and sharp. I guess there are some advantages to an 8+ year build.
I have an oven for post curing archery equipment, and I have a number of parts of the shop and car that get brutally hot and can be used as ovens also. I don't post cure most stuff though.
What is the road paint Rob mentioned?