Here in the US paving paint is several very different products. But what he is talking about is the paint for parking lot stripes. That use to be simple but now is more complicated. Some or most of it now is water base. To keep it simple you can go to a paint store and ask for it. You can even buy it at H-D in upside down spray cans in white and yellow. I have a wheeled cart that holds the can and is regulated or controlled by a cable valve up at the handle. All of the stuff dries very quick. I am not sure what kind he is talking about but there is no reason I know of that it would not work well.
Stripes on grass fields also use a water base paint but that is definitely not suitable.
JIB .
---------- Original Message ----------
From: Dennis Cox <dec720@att.net>
To: harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au
Subject: Re: [harryproa] Re: Epoxy Usage
Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 14:49:08 -0700 (PDT)
Epoxy - I'm using epoxy from http://www.uscomposites.com/epoxy.html#epoxhard. It has the 28 hour set time so I can apply another layer the next day and it'll still chemically bond. Also, its about half the price of West Systems. They do say it is their most ductile version and that 5+ days is not uncommon for a complete cure. I just rushed it with the rudder.
Road Paint - This was Rob's note. I've never heard of the stuff here in the US. Hopefully, there is some equivalent...
Paving paint is what they paint on outdoor concrete surfaces. Got it from the local hardware shop (Bunnings). Thinned about 10% with water and sprayed with a conventional set up. Beginning was dry by the time he got to the end. Sprayer is good, but not a pro. No runs, no sanding scratches showing through after one coat. Can also brush or roll it, but, possibly because of my cheap brushes and rollers, it looks pretty rough. Will be brushing the mast tomorrow.
From: proaconstrictor <proaconstrictor@yahoo.ca>
To: harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au
Sent: Wed, September 8, 2010 5:34:50 PM
Subject: [harryproa] Re: Epoxy Usage
Did you mention what kind of epoxy you are using? For wood structures I cure up to 170 degrees F, but WEST, as an example, actually doesn't need it. I think they say no more than 150 is needed. Many epoxies will eventually get to considerable hardness, but are rubbery at the outset. WEST is pretty hard right after cure, which makes it nice for stuff like tortured ply hulls where lessor glues have torn during fold up, while WEST never does. I tend to use WEST for highly loaded stuff, though there are lots of brands out there that are designed for equivalent uses. I haven't found a superior boat brand though, but use all kinds of stuff depending on price and the application since many uses are not all that demanding.
I made a wooden trailer for my tri at one point, and the glue I used for that, a 50/50 mix, was really soft for 3 months, but recently while rebuilding parts of it 20 years down the road, it seemed very hard. I had a similar experience with EAST System, it was one of the glues that really let me down and ruined a hull. So I got all over a pal of mine that was using the stuff on a large cat, and he showed me cured chips that where painful to handle, they were so hard and sharp. I guess there are some advantages to an 8+ year build.
I have an oven for post curing archery equipment, and I have a number of parts of the shop and car that get brutally hot and can be used as ovens also. I don't post cure most stuff though.
What is the road paint Rob mentioned?