I can't generally suggest house paint. The stuff we use is the widely available Behr superwhite interior/exterior (and it can be tinted also). First time I used it was for a window frame and I was really surprised how close the gloss etc... was to an oil paint. I have used it with primer and without, over raw epoxy, or awlgrip, pretty much anything you can imagine, and it stick well. It is a little rubbery, so I will have to see how it works for sanding etc... Though I have ROS that is pneumatic if I have to take after it with water.
The population divides very roughly into thirds, 1/3 could take baths in the stuff, another third will get sensitized over time, but will be ok if they take sensible precautions, and the final third will be in serious trouble if they are exposed. Presumably it is a sliding scale, so we are all on the grid somewhere.
On the glass itch, there is a simple solution, and your barber knew all about it. Dust any skin that is likely exposed in talc. This stuffs up the pores, and you won't get the itch. However, there are several other problems, some talc is really bad for you also, perhaps the corn starch brands should be tried first. More importantly, if you are getting the itch, it indicates that you are in a glass rich environment. Really dangerous, the least of it being itchiness. I won't sand glass, for the most part. There are additive methods of getting to the same place where you never sand. A comparative situation is drywall vs. plastering. Plaster is not sanded. Even with drywall the sanding is mostly to eliminated a couple of pricey returns to the job, so you can just do extra steps and eliminate the sanding. I never sand glass in a workshop, might as well let off a neutron bomb. Those of us in this perpetual hobby mode are getting serious exposure to the work environment, there is no easy way to clean a shop back to the point where it is safe. Also, around the home there can be kids and spouses to consider. I only sand out of doors and with a stiff back wind, and as mentioned try to work so it doesn't come up. It is a complex process though, you will never read an article about working clean like this, and you probably won't meet too many pros who do it either since it is too costly. A few guys who do seminars with civilians and are pros may have given it some thought.
--- In harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au, Dennis Cox <dec720@...> wrote:
>
> I'd be pleasantly surprised if the boat last longer than a good house paint...
> if house paint will last anywhere near as long being underwater versus being on
> a house side. I've looked and can't find the road paint here... When I've seen
> that being layed down on the street... its real thick and dries real quickly. I
> guess there is something in it that our country (Big Brother) feels is beyond us
> stupid people's ability to use without supervision.
>
> Dennis
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Rob Denney <harryproa@...>
> To: harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au
> Sent: Sat, September 11, 2010 8:11:42 AM
> Subject: Re: [harryproa] Epoxy and Paint
>
>
> The fibreglass itching is all the sharp little pieces of glass sticking into
> your skin. Wear enough clothes and it won't affect you. Or, keep going and
> eventually you will get used to it. The epoxy reaction is much more serious and
> is caused by the hardener. So, it affects you even when the stuff is mixed, but
> not fully cured. Starts with mild itching, progresses to severe (as in clawing
> chunks out) itching and swelling, in some cases of the throat, making breathing
> difficult. Treat epoxy like the poison it is. Off your skin and out of your
> throat. Steroids have been used to prevent the symptoms, but basically, if you
> get seriously allergic, you are stuffed around boats. Even fully cured epoxy
> can have enough unreacted hardener to give a seriously allergic person a lot of
> problems.
>
>
> House paint is cheap, tough and lasts a long time, but can be a bugger to sand
> if it balls up and clogs your paper. More of a problem for fix ups and changes
> than for anything else.
>
>
> rob
>
>
> On Sat, Sep 11, 2010 at 9:42 PM, Dennis Cox <dec720@...> wrote:
>
>
> >I've heard about the allergic reactions to epoxy in general, but I've never seen
> >it and haven't figured out the difference between it and when I get "itchy". I
> >understand it can be a "build-up" thing. IOW, I may be fine now, and have more
> >and more trouble later on. Right now, I get it even getting up in the attic
> >with the pink fiberglass insulation. Once I take a good shower its gone. Is
> >the "allergic" reaction something obviously different? Is it a chemical contact
> >while the epoxy is still liquid or can I get sensativity to even the cutting and
> >sanding dust? That's a lot harder to avoid since its everywhere?
> >
> >Ductile - There wording is "cures as the most flexible laminate."
> >
> >I'd be interested to hear what you come up with, with the new paint. I wouldn't
> >have thought about house paint. But for MLM, I'll try anything. The house
> >paints sticks to fiberglass? I might could get a Oop's gallon for $5. :)
> >
> >Dennis
> >
> >
> >
> >
> ________________________________
> From: proaconstrictor <proaconstrictor@...>
> >To: harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au
> >Sent: Fri, September 10, 2010 6:35:10 PM
> >Subject: [harryproa] Re: Epoxy Usage
> >
> >
> >
> >A friend of mine is building his Wood's Cat with that stuff, and I believe he
> >had terrible allergic reactions to it. I wouldn't worry too much since it is
> >highly personal what causes reactions and the solution, careful work habits, is
> >the same for any brand, just mentioning it.
> >
> >Ductile when cured? I wouldn't want that, though doubtless fine and dandy for
> >your current project.
> >
> >Thanks for the info on paint. I an interested in some new Behr paint. I have
> >used their Super white, interior exterior latex with considerable success. They
> >have a new paint that has some nanotech angle to it, and is supposed to be much
> >more durable, but it isn't rated exterior. I need to talk with their paint techs
> >and sort out why. Could be it isn't as elastic, and they fear film failure for
> >that reason, which would not be a concern with sheathed wood. Or maybe it
> >dissolves in water. :) I think there is a good chance it might be superior, but
> >I haven't got any info from someone who has used it.
> >
> >--- In harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au, Dennis Cox <dec720@> wrote:
> >>
> >> Epoxy - I'm using epoxy
> >>from http://www.uscomposites.com/epoxy.html#epoxhard.%C3%82
> >>
> >> It has the 28 hour set time so I can apply another layer the next day and it'll
> >>.
> >
> >
>