Shit Man I'm cursed, its not an argument It was just a simple question. I have my own ideas of what to do. I haven't seen alot of examples of what others do that I like. It would have been nice to find out the easiest , most efficient and strongest method with out adding to much weight and 80$ exspensive carbon tow. To me carbon tow is too rigid unless your whole hull is carbon. I'm building with S glass and regular glass only. Look at how simple the A class or nacra or similar designs are put together. How about the RC 30 catamaran bolt on beams.

I have that 12' hull I started a while back. I started up again to finish and just add to my existing 16' v hull. The 12'ter Siting at 6'' displaces 365lbs or there abouts and still fits on my short trailer. I have a brand new full batten mylar 120 sqft main sail to add as well. I figure its the quickest way to get my kids on the water in the "bay" with me. I could sail that around until I start building the 18 or 20' leeward hull to go with the 12' windward hull. Or another larger proa.

I refined the shape on my steering boards and cut off the excess on my backer boards that hold the steering boards, to keep them out of the water as much as possible. My whole boat was just a quick experiment everything was added to what was my paddling canoe I know its to small. I can design proas that I have in my mind all day like the rest of the proa nuts but as far as building full size. The commitment, time, money, energy, and the mess thats another thing.

Todd

--- In harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au, "tsstproa" <bitme1234@...> wrote:
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> So the question still stands. Here's my idea sense I couldn't find anything on the net. Using two bulkheads one on each side of where intended beam is to be placed building that up with beam mold in place. The two bulk heads distributing the load more evening through out hull. Feathering the glass thickness on inside from thickest to thinnest to the outer most parts.
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> Todd
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> Thanks for the help again, Not!
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> --- In harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au, Doug Haines <doha720@> wrote:
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> > Sounds good.
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> > --- On Wed, 4/5/11, tsstproa <bitme1234@> wrote:
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> > From: tsstproa <bitme1234@>
> > Subject: [harryproa] Re: Windward hull attachment ?
> > To: harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au
> > Date: Wednesday, 4 May, 2011, 12:54
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> > Sound engineering should do away with exotic material Doughy!!!
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> > --- In harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au, Doug Haines <doha720@> wrote:
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> > > Hi Toddy, Try some tow wrapped around and down onto bulkheads. DougWA
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> > > --- On Mon, 2/5/11, tsstproa <bitme1234@> wrote:
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> > > From: tsstproa <bitme1234@>
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> > > Subject: [harryproa] Windward hull attachment ?
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> > > To: harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au
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> > > Date: Monday, 2 May, 2011, 6:47
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> > > How to attach windward hull and make it bomb proof. Not literally of course;) Just indestructible to forces at yalp in the most extreme conditions. I was thinking the attachment needed to be near bulk head to disperse load more evenly through out hull skin so as not to just rip out hull. Use maeb as mold and ssalg mold to klub head and surrdouing lluh niks or is there a better-easier way? Flat 15'' bottom on 22'' wide sheer, 12' hull to windward.
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