The closest yet that seems to make sense to me is Peters idea But instead of glass tow which at my local glass shop is exactly what you said Rob. I was thinking of Just using strips of 8.7oz standard glass and laying it out As peter mentioned. Like what I see on sails at high stress areas tack, head, and, foot locations. On hull though have them fan out like fingers having them over lap due to the bi direction weave in the glass cloth in all directions on the inside and outside of hull.

I looked up the 50k carbon tow I'll save my pennys. Seems like the tow will be way easier to wet out and get a good laminated around odd shaped surfaces and a lot lighter than the glass cloth.

Thanks
Todd

I'm sounding old; "The commitment, time, money, energy, and the mess
thats another thing."

Need to add to the list, no how, and space!!!

--- In harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au, Rob Denney <harryproa@...> wrote:
>
> Like Doug said, the easiest , most efficient, lightest and strongest method
> is to use tow. It will be cheaper than the nuts and bolts the A cats etc
> use and with a tapered socket, quicker to assemble as well. Won't leak, no
> bits to lose, nothing to come loose.
>
> Glass tow is usually not sized for epoxy so doesn't wet out properly.
> Pulled apart roving should work better or use ester resins, but if it is a
> secondary bond, you may have adhesion problems. Look on EBay for cheap
> tow, ends of rolls etc, but even buying it at $45/kg, it is a cheap option.
> A kg of 50K tow is 270m/810' and each tow is enormously strong. 40' will do
> all your beams; $2 plus a small cupful of resin.
>
> The stiffness of carbon will not make any difference unless you want the
> hulls to move independantly, which may or may not be beneficial and will not
> be sensibly achieved with any form of lashing. That is, the beams need to
> be designed to move. The A cat guys spend up large to ensure they don't.
> The nuts and bolts crowd are not competitive with the solid beam boats.
>
> rob
>
> On Sat, May 7, 2011 at 2:14 AM, tsstproa <bitme1234@...> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > Shit Man I'm cursed, its not an argument It was just a simple question. I
> > have my own ideas of what to do. I haven't seen alot of examples of what
> > others do that I like. It would have been nice to find out the easiest ,
> > most efficient and strongest method with out adding to much weight and 80$
> > exspensive carbon tow. To me carbon tow is too rigid unless your whole hull
> > is carbon. I'm building with S glass and regular glass only. Look at how
> > simple the A class or nacra or similar designs are put together. How about
> > the RC 30 catamaran bolt on beams.
> >
> > I have that 12' hull I started a while back. I started up again to finish
> > and just add to my existing 16' v hull. The 12'ter Siting at 6'' displaces
> > 365lbs or there abouts and still fits on my short trailer. I have a brand
> > new full batten mylar 120 sqft main sail to add as well. I figure its the
> > quickest way to get my kids on the water in the "bay" with me. I could sail
> > that around until I start building the 18 or 20' leeward hull to go with the
> > 12' windward hull. Or another larger proa.
> >
> > I refined the shape on my steering boards and cut off the excess on my
> > backer boards that hold the steering boards, to keep them out of the water
> > as much as possible. My whole boat was just a quick experiment everything
> > was added to what was my paddling canoe I know its to small. I can design
> > proas that I have in my mind all day like the rest of the proa nuts but as
> > far as building full size. The commitment, time, money, energy, and the mess
> > thats another thing.
> >
> > Todd
> >
> > --- In harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au, "tsstproa" <bitme1234@> wrote:
> > >
> > > So the question still stands. Here's my idea sense I couldn't find
> > anything on the net. Using two bulkheads one on each side of where intended
> > beam is to be placed building that up with beam mold in place. The two bulk
> > heads distributing the load more evening through out hull. Feathering the
> > glass thickness on inside from thickest to thinnest to the outer most parts.
> >
> > >
> > > Todd
> > >
> > > Thanks for the help again, Not!
> > >
> > > --- In harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au, Doug Haines <doha720@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Sounds good.
> > > >
> > > > --- On Wed, 4/5/11, tsstproa <bitme1234@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > From: tsstproa <bitme1234@>
> > > > Subject: [harryproa] Re: Windward hull attachment ?
> > > > To: harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au
> > > > Date: Wednesday, 4 May, 2011, 12:54
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Â
> > > >
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> > > >
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> > > >
> > > > Sound engineering should do away with exotic material Doughy!!!
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --- In harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au, Doug Haines <doha720@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > > > Hi Toddy, Try some tow wrapped around and down onto
> > bulkheads. DougWA
> > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > > > --- On Mon, 2/5/11, tsstproa <bitme1234@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > > > From: tsstproa <bitme1234@>
> > > >
> > > > > Subject: [harryproa] Windward hull attachment ?
> > > >
> > > > > To: harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au
> > > >
> > > > > Date: Monday, 2 May, 2011, 6:47
> > > >
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> > > > > How to attach windward hull and make it bomb proof. Not literally of
> > course;) Just indestructible to forces at yalp in the most extreme
> > conditions. I was thinking the attachment needed to be near bulk head to
> > disperse load more evenly through out hull skin so as not to just rip out
> > hull. Use maeb as mold and ssalg mold to klub head and surrdouing lluh niks
> > or is there a better-easier way? Flat 15'' bottom on 22'' wide sheer, 12'
> > hull to windward.
> > > >
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> > > > > Todd
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