Rob, and anyone thinking about computerized
drafting,
I learned drafting back in the days of
pencil and paper....but computer aided drafting really is the way to go. My
favorite is "SolidWorks". That program is one that speaks to a
traditionally trained draftsman. He can see immediately how it works. Even
the symbols and icons in SolidWorks are those already known to designers. It is
NOT a free program. But the price is reasonable given what it does do. I'm sure
your mate already knows about it. It comes with a teaching program as well.
Not only is this type of computer aided drafting
easier and faster than hand drafting, the resulting stack of drawing
files made while using the program turns out to have one of
those weird unexpected benefits that have become commonplace
in our new world, a benefit that was never possible - or
even thought of - before computers .
This new thing is called "3-D assembly".
It is a step which happens after one has drawn all the parts
of the boat just as they would be built.......as a series of parts. In other
words, the CAD designer makes a drawing for each
subassembly part like the frame, the hatches, the companionway
door, the rudder, the windows, hatches, fittings.... on and on and on
. But on each drawing the attaching surface is designated.
Then you give the program the command to
assemble the parts and ZOOM! - the whole file of drawings flies together
to form new file representing the completed boat! Which can then be rotated
3D and also sliced.
When I was doing a fair amount of design....and
later when it was my job to check others' work....the largest and most painful
task was assembling an accurately scaled 3D representation out of a pile of 2D
pencil drawings. Usually that was done and redone by an artist rather than a
drafter. The computer design programs
that can do that - like SolidWorks - not only does it immediately and
automatically, it also notifies you about any interference
between surfaces. Then it goes one step farther and allows you to make
changes in the subassembly drawing which are immediately incorporated into the
full assembly.
The whole trick is not to draw the boat. One
draws the parts that make up the boat and then the program assembles and checks
them. Incidentally, converting old style parts drawings into SolidWorks parts
drawings is one of the best ways to teach yourself the program.
Checking drawings used to be one nasty
& time-consuming engineering job. It's different now. The job of
checking drafted drawings didn't go overseas to some less expensive workforce.
It simply is gone forever; never coming back.
I'm glad of that,
Roger L.
----- Original Message -----From: Rob DenneySent: Saturday, November 10, 2012 4:39 AMSubject: Re: [harryproa] 3D printed harryproa models?Surface area of a 600mm/2' long Visionarry schooner, both hulls, cockpit, beams, rudders, no rig, no internal furniture is 422,685 sq mm, which is 4,227 sq centimetres . Pretty sure that 1mm would be sufficient in ABS type plastic, so 427 cu centimetres/$600. 1ft would be 105,669, so about $150Would be great to have a removable deck with all the fitout and maybe some people to give it a sense of scale. Be even greater to put a rig and rc gear on it and take it for a sail.I have a mate who knows about this sort of thing, have asked him if he is interested, will let you know.There is no problem with my intellectual property. First off, the hull shapes etc are nothing special, secondly, anyone who really wants to rip me off could do so from the web page and by asking me questions where my enthusiasm for spreading the proa word overcomes any reticence about sharing so I can make some money. Not sure I would want to work with/for someone who would do that kind of thing anyway.There is a problem with my computer skills, which are not a whole lot better than Gardner's. Good enough to put a full size boat together, not sure how I would go with a model. Only one way to find out, I suppose.If my mate is interested, he will also clean up my drawings, which would be handy. If not, then I suggest we ask as many printers as we can find and see what they can offer. I will send a correct rhino of a hull to anyone who wants to check out prices, etc and see what comes back.I am also interested in plastic moulds or plugs for foils, and plastic mast/rudder bearings if anyone does an UHMWPE equivalent.Any other suggestions/questions, let me know.rob
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