How many autopilots? Good question.
One central controller with two separate mechanisms, using a
simple switch to change between the two? Just one autopilot, which
might work the same in both directions if you use a Speer section
and keep the tiller on the same side? Or just get two complete
systems so that you have some redundancy?
I think any of the above could work. Like you point out, the huge
savings (when compared to buying a new or even a used F36) would
cover the second autopilot. And then you'd the extra it if you
needed it.
- Mike
Mike,
AUTOPILOT.
As for an autopilot, I'd use a Raymarine ST-4000 tiller pilot. The control goes inside, or at least at the cockpit, and just the mechanical portion sits out, the base connected to the leeward hull, the end connected to the tiller (not the extension). I use one of these on my catamaran with great success. If patched into the nmea system, you can even have it steer to GPS waypoints, or to the average wind direction of the last minute.
So, would you just have 2 autopilots? One for each tiller? I guess that would be simplest, and somewhat affordable, since we are saving so much money on the boat <grin>.
12' FOLDED BEAM.
I hear you about not being able to fit in a full-sized permanent cockpit in to a 12' width while folded. I've tried, and if everything is just so, it might be possible, but only if I skimp on the interior, the cockpit, or both. Given that I'm shooting for a table inside, and a 6' cockpit, there may be no way it can happen unless there's a funky system like your Contrarry where the cockpit overhangs the leeward hull when folded.
Going along with your idea of a removable cockpit (or Dennis' flip/folding one), how about a 14' width to 16' width while folded, going down to a 10' or even 8' width while trailering?
My current drawing gives a 14' beam while folded on the water. That is is with an interior table (4' width) plus a 4 1/2' wide removable cockpit. Since the table, galley and cockpit are all on the same level, I think that the cockpit is large enough. I can send you my drawings, if you like. I don't want to bother posting them to the group before Rob is finished with them.
FOILS.
Could you point me to an image of Todd's design with a fixed vertical steering board? I think you mean the one here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jn8fr0PaUqg , but want to check
If you went with this, how would you incorporate raising and lowering the foils? Or would you just count on your hull design to counter leeway, and have the foils raked way back for sailing in skinny water? And how would that work with the hull profile you're planning on?
That video does show the basic structure of Todd's rudder design. I don't have any drawings of my ideas right now, but I better get on that (if I want to convince Rob) . For now, just imagine that instead of just having a rudder attached to one of Todd's steering boards, you have a rudder case, like Rob's. That case allows the rudder to be raised and lowered, so if your blade is 8' long, it can go from a 2' draft to a 6' draft (or so). If the rudder hits something, the case pivots with the rudder, but the steering board stays vertical. That would also allow the rudder to cant 20 degrees or so in order to stabilize the symmetric rudder. I have a mechanism in mind that would make that canting operation automatic during a shunt (it is tied in with the mainsheet).
Overall, I am pretty happy with the layout. Hopefully I can get some builders quotes, which will give me a better idea if I am ever going to be able to turn the plans into a boat.
- Mike