Not sure which one you mean for Round Aus , there have been a couple, from El to a 90'ter. I would make the lee hull as long as you can afford for a trip like that or if it is a small one, then small and light enough to pull up a beach.
2.4 is wide enough to fold the hull on the flat panel Vis. Any bigger and it wouldn't be. Bunnings melamine sheets with mylar instead of release wax. Works well for 3 or 4 sheets, then falls apart. We are experimenting with other plastics.
A few changes since Sol, mostly in the way things are joined together. Aim is to have as little as possible wet laminating and eliminate filleting and tabbing. Samples look good, will be trying it on the boat soon.
rob
On Tue, Apr 16, 2013 at 8:08 PM, Doug Haines <doha720@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
I mean the one that would go around Australia. That type of thing.
Was 2.4m wide enough to fold the ww hull?
Is it using Bunnings melamine sheets?
Has there been much change since the Sol in the pictures?> Not sure which 2 man cruiser you mean. Flasharry is a flat panel version> On Mon, Apr 15, 2013 at 12:19 PM, Doug Haines <doha720@...> wrote:
> of Visionarry (with a new deck shape). Solitarry is a 6m ww hull which
> could easily be used with something smaller than the 15m lee hull.
>
> If the joins are correct, you can make as many pieces as you like. But a
> lot of the work is after the pieces are joined, so may as well go with a
> full length table then dismantle it to assemble the pieces. The mast can
> be joined above ~2/3 rds the height with no risk. The beams are best in
> one piece, unless they are scissoring, in which case the attachments need
> to be very strong.
>
> Dismantleable 10m x 2.4 table cost $720 incl sawhorses, alloy beams and
> mdf. see next flasharry build update.
>
> rob
>
>
> > **
> >
> >
> > So you could make a (What's the name for the small 2 man cruiser - not
> > Elementarry - is it flashharry?) youcould do a 8m ww hull in just 4m of
> > table and then what about thirds for the other hull - then use just a 5m
> > table to get 15m or 4m table to get 12m.
> > This doesn't include thefoam bows though.
> >
> > Doug
> >
> >> > --- In harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au, Rob Denney <harryproa@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Very sensible. Include a rebate each side and the join won't need to be
> > > faired. The glass on the skin is all that is required for the join as
> > long
> > > as the overlap is sufficient and the laminate quality good (bagging is
> > > ideal). The width of rebate should be 100 x the thickness of the
> > laminate.
> > > Assuming it is bagged, this is near enough 1mm per 100gsm. ie, a 600 gsm
> > > laminate will be 0.6mm thick, so the rebate should be 0.5-1mm thick (too
> > > deep is better than too shallow, filling in the hollow is easier than
> > > fairing in the bulge) and 60mm wide. This will look insufficient so you
> > > will probably double the laminate and the rebate dimensions. In which
> > > case, make sure you taper the edges of the extra cloth by at least 10mm
> > per
> > > side.
> > >
> > > Lining it up can be tricky, make sure each half has some clear datum
> > marks
> > > to facilitate this.
> > >
> > > Any questions, let me know.
> > >
> > > rob
> > >> > > On Sun, Apr 14, 2013 at 5:31 PM, Doug Haines <doha720@> wrote:
> > >
> > > > **
> >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > How sensible is doing a half of ww hull and joining together to save
> > the
> > > > space for the lay-up?
> > > >
> > > > And also the lw hull.
> > > >
> > > > Doug
> > > > WA
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>
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