Subject: Re: [harryproa] Re: Best way to start small?
From: Rob Denney
Date: 8/22/2013, 6:12 AM
To: harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au
Reply-to:
harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au

 

The masts are not cored or joined with a male female joint *the wall thickness varies too much and curves are much harder to join than flats).  Beams hulls and booms are all cored, although the beams and booms are only in the sides (the top bottom laminate has most of the carbon in it), which is where the join is.  

rob


On Thu, Aug 22, 2013 at 12:27 PM, Gardner <gardner@networknow.org> wrote:
 

Are you saying the mast, beams and boom are all cored? Somehow I always assumed that they were just laminates. 

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 21, 2013, at 7:34 PM, Rob Denney <harryproa@gmail.com> wrote:

 

The join should be on both sides, or it is likely to fail under peeling loads.  With infusion, it is quite simple to include male/female joins in the laminate.  This is how we join panels, booms, beams and the lee hull.  The female piece has a spacer to replace the core, the male a slightly thinner core so that it fits inside the female.  Everything is peel plied so no sanding required.  Add glue, push together and the job is done.  If the laminates are only one layer of cloth, add a removable batten each side and screw through the join to prevent it bulging. To reduce fairing, add a rebate on the male where the female overlaps it.

The bulkheads, mast step and mast top bearing all cross the join in the lee hull add a lot to the strength of the join.  

rob


On Thu, Aug 22, 2013 at 12:40 AM, Gardner Pomper <gardner@networknow.org> wrote:
 

So how to you join the inside of the half mould pieces when you put them together? Or is joining just the outside adequate?
 
- Gardner


 
On Wed, Aug 21, 2013 at 6:09 AM, Rob Denney <harryproa@gmail.com> wrote:
 

I'm well, thanks. Are you stil in Perth?

The masts, beams and booms have been built in half moulds for a while.  The flat bottom lee hulls are basically bigger versions of the boom/beams so using a mould for them means half as many joins compared to building from panels.  Also gives more shape variables.  

Infusing in a 3 sided box (ie few or no compound curves) is basically the same as flat table infusion, apart from the hassle of getting everything to sit in place until the bag is evacuated.  Spray on adhesive and masking tape make it feasible.

rob


On Wed, Aug 21, 2013 at 7:32 PM, Doug Haines <doha720@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
 

hi rob,
how are you?
is that a new technique - no table?

doug

--- In harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au, Rob Denney <harryproa@...> wrote:
>
> A possible order of operations might be: hatches, bulkheads, seats, (all
> could be done on a single sheet table, depending on the boat size), decks,
> floors, rudders, boom, beams, masts, lee hull (last 4 don't need a table,
> "just" an mdf mould). I agree with Nick that after the first couple, you
> will want to build a full size table and do multiple infusions.
>
> rob
>
>
> On Wed, Aug 21, 2013 at 12:37 AM, Doug Haines <doha720@...> wrote:
>
> > **
> >
> >
> >
> > so what parts would you start doing if you got a small table or even a
> > boom size table ?
> >
> > doug
> >
> >
> > --- In harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au, "gravitygroper" <gravitygroper@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Theres heaps of small stuff you can do on a single sheet of Melamine
> > Faced MDF - from bunnings or a cabinet maker, you can get a 1200X2400 sheet
> > for about $20. Vacuum pumps are available on ebay for about $200 last i
> > checked, search for "2 stage rotary vane vacuum pump".
> > >
> > > Youll also need a catch pot to stop resin gettin into the vac pump,
> > absolute vacuum and engineering sell a premade one, or you could make one
> > yourself - only needs to handle -14.7psi.
> > >
> > > Once youve had a little play around with infusion, youll be wanting to
> > jump right into something bigger. Bigger infusions are more time efficient,
> > youll soon realize that scaling up is rather inconsequential, theres just
> > more resin to mix and thats about it.
> > >
> > > Sooner you get started, the sooner you finish :)
> > >
> > > Nick
> > >
> > > --- In harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au, "Doug Haines" <doha720@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hello guys,
> > > >
> > > > On the continuing theme of trying to get going forward on the
> > > > main project (ie the next HP).
> > > > What would be an easy small part to start off with.
> > > > Without the investment of table and bulk materials?
> > > > Or is getting ready with the table and pump about all there is
> > > > to do before starting?
> > > > The method is good, but it is an all or nothing sort of a thing with re
> > > > gards to buying materials and getting started.
> > > > Sorting plans and work areas are really all I can think of.
> > > >
> > > > Doug
> > > > Perth
> > > > WA
> > > >
> > > > former Sidecar owner/builder
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>





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