G'day,
Very interesting discussion the last week or so. I have been flat out getting the 40F onto the web page and sorting out Bucket list, which is on target to be delivered here in mid July, sailing soon after. At which time it is open house for any of you who wants to come for a sail.
>From the last few posts:
Thanks Rick for the helpful numbers and advice. Hope the little tri cleans up the R2AK. Do those beams get some carbon on them?
Love the Bug! keep the drawings coming.
The Campaen rudders and support are big and heavy. The Luca Antara ones are considerably cleaner and lighter, and the C60, cleaner and lighter again. Neither rotate through 360 degrees which is a shortcoming, but offset by the advantages, I think. Bucket List's do it all, but are on the beams, which has a lot of disadvantages for the cruising harrys.
Stub masts are heavier and the top bearing is inaccessible, although the mast is shorter and the hole in the deck is sealed. Plus, with some detailed engineering, the halyards can be bought out through it above the deck, independant of how much the mast is rotated.
A single piece mast is cheaper, lighter and sealing the deck against rain and spray is pretty trivial.
On Bucket List, I am trying a non rotating mast (no bearings or alignment required) and no track. Both significant time and money savings. It will sit in a sleeve to keep the water out. The sleeve is beefed up top and bottom and glued into holes in the hull to help hold the hull halves together. The rest of it is only to keep the water out. For long term use, this is not totally satisfactory as stuff will grow in the tube and it will smell. It is very simple to build and install though. Pictures of this on the blog 'soon'.
Bury is determined by righting moment, not mast length. But a rule of thumb is minimum 10% of the overall length. This applies to beams, rudders and masts. Less than this is possible (we have gone as low as 7%, but the item and bearings need a lot of reinforcing. Struts are great, but be careful with the attachment points.
Bucket List's deck is flat because we were not sure how well the build method would deal with peaked decks. The production ones will be peaked and, based on how the prototype goes, much lower. The cruisers have flat decks for access reasons and because they will rarely if ever go through waves..
To me, the rudder/daggerboard question is more about safety than anything else. If you hit something, they must kick up. If you have to run up a beach, or ride out a storm, it is essential you have nothing beneath the hulls. Secondarily, the 2 rudders, no daggerboard arrangement allows more balance flexibility, bigger rudders for more control at slow speeds (ie getting going after a shunt) and no holes below the water. When the in hull beefing up is included, they are much lighter than rudders which have to withstand impacts.
On Elementarry, it is quite noticable when sailing upwind that the boat sails more nose down with both rudders down and is slower than with just the aft rudder. I expect to get a lot more data on this when BL is sailing.
The answers to your 40F questions: