Subject: Re: [harryproa] Table construction
From: "Rob Denney harryproa@gmail.com [harryproa]" <harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au>
Date: 5/15/2016, 9:27 PM
To: harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au
Reply-to:
harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au

 

Thin material either side of foam is a good idea.  But the seal must be good.  Coating it with resin or paint is strongly recommended.  I would glue it, coat it and cut it up and reglue and coat it if I needed it for something else.  There is nothing worse than chasing a vac leak, wondering if it is actually on the table under the laminate.   

Same applies to plastic sheeting, which also prevents accurate alignment of the laminate and tends to scrunch up, affecting the surface.

Mdf is not very stable, needs sealing both sides if humidity will be changing.  Masonite (HDF) is better.

Supporting it with steel tubes and saw horses is fine.  I use 80 x 25mm (3x1") alloy rectangle section.  Level it with a straight edge across then along the table and a laser  or water level on the corners to remove any twist.

On Sun, May 15, 2016 at 6:22 AM, Gardner Pomper gardner@networknow.org [harryproa] <harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au> wrote:
 

I need a table for flat panel infusion to build the tender, and (hopefully eventually) the bigger boat. I did build a table once before using particle board with mdf facing, but each 4x8 piece weighed a ton and the whole table had to be permanently glued together, so I could not reconfigure it. I would prefer a table that I could rearrange.

So.. I have an idea that I wanted to run by people before I waste my time on it. Might it be possible to glue mdf sheets to thick foam insulation for the table, so that it was lighter? Then I was thinking that if I offset the mdf from the foam by 1/2 or so, I could get a tongue and groove effect so that the pieces align themselves. I concern is whether the seams can be made tight enough without being permanent?

One option would be to just cover the entire table in a single sheet of black construction plastic, to eliminate the seams. Practical? What about packing table over the seams? Will that show up in the infusion finish?

Another issue is how to make sure the whole thing is flat. I was considering using steel framing studs spaced a foot or so apart. I would just lay them across sawhorses and put the foam/mdf panels on top.

Other thoughts?

- Gardner


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Posted by: Rob Denney <harryproa@gmail.com>
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