Subject: [harryproa] Infuse and Fold
From: "StoneTool owly@ttc-cmc.net [harryproa]" <harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au>
Date: 5/29/2018, 10:53 AM
To: "harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au" <harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au>
Reply-to:
harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au

 

    There are places where infusing and folding might make sense,
though I'm not sure about the flexibility of cured epoxy resin. Some
resins are going to be more flexible when cured than others, and of
course radius makes all the difference.  I have on my desk a piece of
fiberglass cloth saturated with T88 epoxy resin, which is not a resin
normally used for layups....... It's what I had to work with when I was
doing peel tests.    I'd an adhesive that is widely used in wood
construction, particularly in wood aircraft construction.   It is
extremely flexible, and will fold around a very tight radius.   Forming
it around a pencil is pushing the limits in my opinion, but of course
epoxy normally will soften at around 300F, so using a heat gun, one
should be able to train it to a permanent bend.

    Again bending really only is going to work with straight line
bends.  It was recently suggested that one could do a slightly curved
bend, in other words bending on two axis at once.  This is impossible
with flat dimensionally stable material.   I suggest trying this on the
table top with paper if you doubt it.   To bend on two axis at once
requires that the material shrink.   I work in metals all the time, and
I can do this with metal but ONLY by using shrinking techniques.    A
few years ago I was helping a young friend (HS age) build a trailer from
a pickup frame.   The frame being basically a channel, he was prepared
to notch the flanges and weld them back together, because obviously
there would be surplus material.......... We were pulling the ends
together to make a hitch.    I stopped him and said "watch this",
installing the rosebud tip (big flame) on the torch, and drawing the two
frame ends together while heating the flange to an orange glow at the
axis of the bend.   The result was a standing wrinkle, which we
obviously didn't want........... Needless to say, Clint was not
impressed.  That is not until I shrunk the wrinkles away by heating them
orange again, and using a hammer with a sledge for a backup, and beating
them flat, making the steel which was in a plastic state flow outward,
allowing the flange to lay flat.   It was his first experience in black
smithing.  I did one........ he did the other three.  He has since grown
to love working with steel, and is a better welder than I am, and does
beautiful work in a forge.

    If you've ever made aircraft ribs (wing) from aluminum, you will
know that fluting is the only way to knock up the flange and keep the
rib straight.   In my experience it's simply not possible to fold
something in any way but a straight line without shrinking, or
stretching material.  A settee or a counter top, would be examples of
where folding might make sense..... I would assume that the foam core
would be spaced  with the allowance needed for the fold.  This would
take less time than building a simple form, and if fillets were
required, they could be on the unseen side.

    Even curving a hull shape that was infused in advance is going to
require something to give.  This will be the core itself, which will
most likely compress, bringing the two surfaces closer together.   There
are definitely limits to shaping sandwich parts after the sandwich is
made.  Something has to give.    The best thing is to have the parts in
their final shape before the infusion.

                H.W.

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Posted by: StoneTool <owly@ttc-cmc.net>
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