Rick:
That sounds like the normal way to build, usually bulkheads
and stringers are the form, and remain in the boat. It may be
the simplest, but it is very labor intensive, as the entire
exterior surface must be finished, and of course building the
interior is labor intensive also, crawling in and out fitting the
pieces, etc.
The whole reason I'm involved in this group is to examine the
possibility of using Rob's "intelligent infusion" to reduce labor,
dust, resin use, and finishing time. If a simple female form
with slick smooth surface can be built of MDF, or some other
material, and then the outer layers of glass laid in, followed by
the foam core, and the inner layers of glass, with "features"
formed in to accept bulkheads, and an entire half of a hull
infused with resin all at once, leaving a finished exterior
surface, I'm willing to spend the time on building the form. Two
hull halves built from each form, the entirety of the two hulls
can be laid up and finished in fairly short order once the forms
are built. The only external seams being the center seam at the
keel, and the seams where the coach roof(s) are joined. The
inner surface of a hull does not need to be fiberglassed, which is
an ordeal.... working down inside the hull.... It's already done.
It should be possible to fit most of the internal furnishings /
features in the half hulls, in fact bulkheads and furnishings
could be installed in one hull half before it's even removed from
the form. This method could shave months of very unpleasant hand
labor off from a build.... avoiding most of the sticky dusty work,
and most of the mess.
When Rob uses the term "intelligent infusion", what it means
to me is using your intelligence to avoid the most unpleasant
brute labor. It means investing some money and some time up front
to build the molds, to save a LOT of time and labor throughout the
process, and some weight. The molds are low tech, and involve
inexpensive materials that one can afford to write off. An ideal
situation would of course be to have several builders wanting to
build essentially the same boat. That isn't realistic of course,
because the reason I'm talking about building at all is that the
boat I want does not exist. The story of my life........... What
I want is NEVER what everybody else wants. A good friend of
mine, who is in his 90's once criticized me as being "out of
step"............ I don't think he ever realized that I took it
as a complement....... It had to do with the politics of the time,
but in reality applies to almost every aspect of my life. The
Nazis were "in step". I would hope that being "out of step" was
as American as apple pie ;-)
H.W.
On 05/28/2018 05:11 PM, Rick Willoughby
rickwill@bigpond.net.au
[harryproa] wrote:
I have found the simplest, easiest way to build a flat
panel hull is to build a frame to support the shell upside
down during the construction. Lay up one side of the
panels as flat panels. Cut them to shape by matching to
the frame then sheath the outside of the shell in one go.
That produces a lightweight shell that can be inverted;
frame removed then the chine seam taped. That gives a
shell that generally holds its shape while other
stiffeners can be sheathed in. The only requirement is to
ensure the stem and stern (or second stem for a proa)
remain true until the hull is enclosed and gains torsional
rigidity.
No vacuum bagging required. The only
requirement is to get the full sheathing on the outside
done before the epoxy cures.
The main benefit is avoidance of taped joins
on the outside so the fairing requirement is reduced to
filling the weave. This achieves a weight similar to
an infused hull in a mould.
and
therefore these structures can be built one of
two ways. Either as 3 separate panels joined at
the seams later, or in a mold that begins with
the desired shape.