Subject: Re: [harryproa] polyisocyanurate |
From: "Rob Denney harryproa@gmail.com [harryproa]" <harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au> |
Date: 10/11/2018, 12:09 AM |
To: harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au |
Reply-to: harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au |
I can see about getting you and me samples. Or perhaps we can find a local pipe insulation maker to you.
| Tried melting plastic into fibreglass. Nowhere near the resin fibre ratios (or the pressure) of vac bagged epoxy, but the bond is excellent and tougher than epoxy.
Neat. Can we get more details of what you were thinking to do and what this helped or fixed?
| Also tried heating the surface of foam to make a tough outer layer. Worked well, but the exchange is over 10:1 bubbles to solid, so probably not viable for much more than furniture. Probably better ways to achieve it.
Did the epoxy stick well to the debubbled plastic surface?
What foam did you debubble?
Did you mean Furniture in the boat? Is that a highest load/impact area where delamination is most likely?
| > They also have a laminate version that has less course bubbles, and slightly less compressive strength.
| >
| > Which made me wonder if the Divinycell has large bubbles or small fine bubbles like the 700kpa XPS. Rob you have seen both, please advise when you get a chance.
| H 80 is much bigger bubbles than the Foamular 400. H100 about in the middle. Bubble sizes differ a lot between sheets of the 'same' weight...
Do you think bubble size matters? Should not finer bubbles mean less epoxy?
I assume the Foamular 1000 is even finer still.
I know there has been discussions about large bubbles being better for adhesion, but I am not sure that matters, as foam should not/is not loaded like that, epoxy sucks in that role as it is weak when it is thick, and we carve channels for flow anyway.
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