| I have got to the point of actually making a chlorine
generator using a solar panel and electrodes but have not
tried that. Not sure how the marina managers or
authorities would view that. The proa owner has also
thought about bagging the hulls and throwing a chlorine
tablet into the bag - requires a big bag though.
Chlorine generator sounds interesting. Any bag with dosed
chlorine will burn through said chlorine relatively quick,
unless somewhat form fitting and opaque, limiting sun
exposure and water volume. But I guess a few pucks might
last between sails. I know pools here burn through a
gallon or more of chlorine concentrate a day.
| If the boat is used often, say weekly, and gets to
decent speed then ablating antifouling stays reasonably
clean.
| If you tolerate fouling on a multihull then forget about
performance. You will have a wet rag and finesse in hull
shape is meaningless.
Great point. Sail, trailer, or scrub. I guess this makes
the trailer set up and take down time be offset by hull
scrub time. Did you hear that Mike?
| Ease of build usually equates to reduced weight and
again that will be more important than finesse in the hull
shape. A 28 degree flare gives the lowest wetted surface
for a 3-panel hull but zero gives the lowest waterline
beam and lowest wave drag. A minimum drag hull will have
more flare in the ends than the middle. For high speed to
length ratio there is near zero flare in the mid-section.
So zero flare is consistent with high speed relative to
length.
|
| I allow the thickness of the core to dictate the radius.
On the pedal boats it is difficult to get 200gsm twill
weave cloth to stay down on a 3mm radius chine seam. For
that reason I prefer 4mm core for 200gsm cloth. For anyone
building a hull using my internal frame technique, I
recommend they monitor the chine seam during curing to
ensure it does not bubble (It is not bagged). Making the
radius an elliptical arc rather than a circular arc lowers
risk of bubbling.
|
| My latest hull has 8mm core and I had no problem getting
400gsm biaxial cloth to follow an 8mm radius:
| https://1drv.ms/v/s!Aq1iAj8Yo7jNgw1Xx8jXch9HROgO
|
| If you are building in a mould you can force a tighter
radius but the sharper you make the radius the more prone
to tearing along the outside cloth on the corner. Chine
seams are vulnerable to damage on a flat bottom boat
because they are rigid.
Help me to understand the performance cost of a larger
corner radius.
Like if that 'chine' radius is 2, 10, 20, or 30mm, what
are the effects?