Answers to and comments about recent posts.

Joins, done properly are fine at whatever location and the weight penalty is minimal.  However, the time to build the hulls doubles so the hired shed option has some appeal.  I empathise with you about local govt rules, I have similar problems, exacerbated by a neighbour who thinks boats should not be built or stored in her street.  

Crush bows vary from nothing to about 600mm/2'.  Nothing to stop you making them bigger or smaller.  

The blogs are under "boatbuilding blogs at the top of each web page.  Some of it is a bit  old,  I need to update it.

Look forward to the autopilot solutions, although I don't see why a conventional arrangement won't work if it disconnected for shunts.  Using car wiper motors would be a big money saver.  It should not be a problem to put everything below deck, although if it is next to the rudders, there will need to be access to the ends of the lee hull included in the infusion.  

The rudders are progressing, but I doubt we will do any 'final' drawings until the next boat needs them.   They are symmetric one way rudders in cases so they can be lifted and kick up.  These will be raked forward which is not perfect, but will only need to be rotated to shunt, which should be semi automatic (ie no additional wheel rotations).  The rake will be adjustable, but not while moving. 

Bidirectional rudders (also symmetric) are optional, don't require any extra wheel movement, but do need to be raked aft each shunt.  This can also be made automatic.  

Leeward or windward side of the lee hull use the same structure etc so it is owner's choice, depending on how often you moor alongside and whether you like looking at the rudders (I do, most people don't). 

I appreciate that this is not much better than teasing, will see if I can get something drawn to show what is involved.

The rudder article became a joke.  I would write something, think about it, have an idea and it all changed.  Once the 'final' drawings are done, I will get on to it.  

Steinar has 30mm foam for insulation, double glazed windows and a wood/solid fuel heater.  And plans to leave the frozen north asap. ;-)  The area to be heated is pretty small, so a heater low in the hull will not have to work very hard.  Ventilation is key, and under floor hatches a good way to achieve it.    Cool idea about collecting the humidity.  The foam free  rebates in the chines and gunwhales are great for cable runs etc and are easily covered.  Or insulated.

My dislike of holes in the hull and operating the boat from inside are my peculiarities.  There is no reason for others to do the same.  Leading at least one of the sheets into the windward hull would be strongly advised if you were steering from there in adverse conditions.

I have done small infusions of perforated veneers and large ones with hdpe on the bag side of the laminate.  Not being able to see the resin flow is scary, but if the infusion is reasonably straightforward, nothing to worry about.   More concerning is the bumps and hollows over overlaps in the glass.     If possible, I would put the veneer on the underside.  Either way, the exterior of the veneer is unlikely to be wet out. 

Mini cargo ferry gets launched this weekend.  Will play with kite power until the rig and sails are built, then paint it.  

Kleen Breeze is sold, more soon.