Subject: Re: [harryproa] Re: 12' wide folding maxi-trailerable
From: "Jerry Barth shredderf16@sbcglobal.net [harryproa]" <harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au>
Date: 9/16/2019, 11:34 AM
To: "harryproa@yahoogroups com. au" <harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au>
Reply-to:
harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au

 

Rob,
I like the over/under beams, I'm building a 15 foot Woods tri and like this better than the folding beams he drew. Any rule of thumb for the overlap?
Thanks,
Jerry Barth



On September 16, 2019, at 7:24 AM, "Rob Denney harryproa@gmail.com [harryproa]" <harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au> wrote:


 



On Mon, Sep 16, 2019 at 2:50 PM '.' eruttan@yahoo.com [harryproa] <harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au> wrote:
 



| My actual preference is the telescoping pieces on top/below each other so they are less likely to jam, are much easier to make and can be checked.

Do you have a sketch, pic, or something that illustrates this? Just roughly..

See attached.  If not, let me know and I will put it in the Files.  The white straps can have plastic inserts or balls to run smoothly, or someone sitting on the boom to leeward of the lee hull to take the weight off.


| About as pretty as side mounted rudders!

Didn't Steinar have a aerodynamic cover for the beams?

Easy enough to make, but they need to be removable for telescoping..


| If looks are important,

Rob, we are building a HP. lol

;-)


| then make the beams as a U with a top on it. Before attaching the top of the lee beams, put the bearings and lines in and make sure it all runs smoothly.

But, don't we need to get back in there to inspect and maintain it?

Not often and made properly, not for a long time. 


| Hinges are fine,

I don't know. I mean they are, but even if we can debate until we get a consensus top contender folding system or two, then we start making that system work, which likely will have a very different set of downstream fixes/solutions than some other folding solution that didn't win the first debate.

It's kind of a complicated domain, with no clear way forward. It feels to me like, at some point, we need to pick a solution and go with it, and expect to see a better one in hindsight.

Complicated indeed, but the pros and cons of each are pretty clear. As are the compromises that need to be made.

 

| Rotating the hulls means everything not tied down of removed falls on the floor. It also means the mast angles outward and could be collected by a boat passing by.

I guess you dont like the floating mast install? Ya, its silly.
I imagined folding and unfolding just at the ramp.
But if folding at the marina is important, then lets plan for that.

| All beam reduction methods need attention paid to the bridge deck.

Again, with all the bravery of ignorance, I'll share ideas.

So, there is a tender and the toy box and the hard deck, and the bench seat, with possible storage box under the seat. And the winches and the rudder controls/wheel (whipstaff). If tiller, than easy?

So lets just assume tillers?

Definitely.  And with telescoping extensions.


Can the toy box and winches be removable and also still hold the anchor well when anchored?

Yes.


Any ideas?

Several, but they are all compromises.  Need to decide what is important.  If you are opening and closing the boat either side of a 2 hour sail after work, the requirements are different to taking it apart to take it home once a season.


How about when collapsed can the bench seat slide over the lee hull? That eliminates the storage under them I guess.

Yes and yes


Or just make the benches removable as boxes, to keep the storage? Assuming they are not a structural part of the lee cabin wall .

They aren't, but they have to be put somewhere, as does the tender and anything else removed.  

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Posted by: Jerry Barth <Shredderf16@sbcglobal.net>
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