These are getting long. Sorry.

| There are several sources of cheap/free labour, I am talking to a crowd who aim to replace diesel gen sets with solar power for remote villages about the cargo ferry being a floating sales base and sundry potential sponsors and materials suppliers.

Sounds like a party boat! You go Rob!
Are you offering destination build classes for wanna be HP builders?

| > | > Honestly, that's very sexy. Closed, light, and very simple.
| > | >
| > | > Does this even need internal lines? Can they not all just be external?
| > | > Address's the maintenance. Show off how stupid simple it is?
| > | >
| > | No problem with external. They could also be removable, with a pin through the straps to keep them in place.

Now that I have had a minute to think about the beams, I ask, given tube ON tube, tube IN tube, or swing, or something else, what is your recommendation? And why?

Same question for internal/external lines in the above.

Probably very easy to make inspection holes for critical points to check/repair the things for internal lines for either system?

| > The straps are the glass that wraps both beams and guides them/keeps them tight?

| Yes

| > You mean the straps are removable, right?

| only by sliding them off the ends of the beams. The pins are to lock the beams and prevent the main sheet and waves pushing the hulls together.

| > And we need the straps removable so the beams tips can bury deep when the hulls are compacted? So we can leave the straps on the beams?

| The straps slide along the beams. The beam ends are tapered so the straps are loose when not fully extended.

Of course. I see it now.

| > On the ww hull assume lee beam is on the deck?

| Structurally better if the lee hull has the beam on the deck. Lee beam does not get lowered, ww one gets raised.

Makes sense. Put the hole(s) in the lighter stressed hull. I am a little slow.

| > But, if top to bottom, lee, middle, ww, is the ww beam kinda low?

| Probably. Depends on the cabin arrangement and what compromises are permitted. If the lee hull beam was at normal height, and the others stacked on top of each other, the limit is the height of the ww hull.

If it's just two beams, and we raising the cabin floor, the ww hull/ cabin roof has to raise anyway, right?

| > Is it worth it to add a 3rd beam for the extra width?
| >
| If the rig and lee hull can be shortened for traillering/marinas, the deck layout and tender organised and the strapping made easy, it would be worth a look.

We get ~22' with two beams? Is that enough for a ~44' HP?

Why fight for a 3rd?

But, here is the fight...

Rig;
Masts can only be ~50’, IF you let them extend over the tow vehicle and flag them. But that might violate Mikes tree scrape limit. How long would we want/need?

Rob, I think we had a question about if it is better to have stub masts you put a mast on, or holes. The idea being stubs allow the mast to be shorter... If sitting on a trailer, the stub masts could be as high as 13' from the ground. Assuming a 36" flat bed trailer, that could be 10' hull to stub top, I think.
Your thoughts?

Lee hull shortening (removable bows) makes sense. If you shorten it to the length of the ww hull, what do we do? Flip up was the EX40F choice. Go with that?

Deck layout;
We got the toy box and the cabin boxes. Looking at the EX40F, collapsed, I don't see many places for things.

Perhaps boxs on the ww beams if we do tube in tube. Else the straps need to slide on them, so you cant put them there while you transform.
We talked about putting them on the marina arm, which if we transform right there, is easy. But there is the 'boxes on the marina arm' for a socially unacceptable time period problem, perhaps. I know nothing about marinas.
Only thought I have, assuming beam mount won't work, is socket them into the tender before putting it under the cabin. Make the tender able to fit them?
Your thoughts?

Tender;
If the cabin floor is raised and the tender fit under it, and anti fouled, then we solve marinaing and trailering.
Well, as much as talking about it solves anything.
Your thoughts?

| The tender goes under the cabin overhang. Say 3' of each hull width, 6' of overhang and 6' wide tender.

I think that's the only option if hang it off the aft beam is unviable. Which it probably is as it exceeds Mikes tree scrape length, I think.
Perhaps I should ask how much length would it add Rob?

| > Can we just use the loosened ratchet straps in place of the glass straps for the in-out too?
| >
| Possibly, but there are smoother options.

I am all ears.

| > Perhaps the glass strap becomes a ratchet strap with glass and UHMW
| > sliders/guides/flat force spreaders under the web?
| > Loose it's a guide, clamps tight for squeak free sailing?
| > Is that reasonable?
| >
| Could be. If the beams are unloaded (someone/something sitting on the boom to lee), then in/out is pretty simple and low loads. If not, the straps need to be rigid.

Hang a weight from the boom for single handed transformations?

| > Perhaps the 3 configurations have a lot in common?
| >
| Sure do. Complexity, frustration, cost. ;-) But given the advantages, it would be worth having a shot.

30 seconds on a string seems better than demountable beams?

Tender under the cabin works for trailering. In the AIR40, you had the tender at the side. What was the plan for it when trailered or containered?

| > Summary is: strap boxes to tender and hang tender off aft beam when marina/trailering. Can motor with tender.
| >
| > Thoughts?
| >
| That works, but a bit of mucking about loading and unloading. The ability to motor when telescoped is only a necessity if the in/out is difficult.
| One string on a winch for 30 seconds, plus pins or ratchet straps at your leisure would be less hassle. The toy box sliding over the cut away lee hull is better than removing it.

Walk me through this. I motor to my assigned slip in a busy marina in all my HP glory, get to the spot, tie off for a quick min, pull a transformers (10 min) and walk the boat into the hole, right?

If that works, it minimizes sailing time collapsed, which had me worried a bit over stability.

It also works for the boat launch. Can be on trailer and gone fast, if busy, and finish in the parking lot/elsewhere?

Re: the toy box;
Can you get the cabin seat, walkway, and toybox in the 3' lee hull?

If you can remove the toybox, you don't have to notch the lee hull. So more interior VOLUME, as Bob says, in the lee hull.

Can probably socket the toybox and cabin seats in 6' tender?
Your thoughts?

Can one drop the sails into the cabin seats boxes for trailering? Or is there a better place to store them when folded?